Jump to content


Coopers Club Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by karlos_1984

  1. Would it hurt to chuck an extra packet in for good measure? Can too much yeast be a bad thing? From memory when using CCA yeast on my other brews, they have all taken a bit of time to get going and never really produced a very big krausen.
  2. I just had another look, appears something is happening. There's condensation on the inside of the lid and a foam starting up. Should I see how it goes or just repitch some packet yeast just in case? That white foam activity wasn't there this morning when I checked. Was just the wort.
  3. Would u blokes suggest rehydrating the packs of yeast to get it going or just chuck them in dry?
  4. Did you just use all the random hops as a dry hop, or did you throw some into a boil? I suppose a dry hops pretty safe but I wouldn't be boiling unknown hops, could be bitter AF
  5. I've done it before without any dramas. I've got some packets of dried yeast on standby in the fridge. If there's no sign of any activity after say 24 hours, should I pitch them in to try and get this thing going, or give it a bit longer?
  6. I've had some CCA yeast harvested from 2 precious brews in a jar in the fridge for a couple months. I poured off the water from the jar and used some wort from the beer I brewed yesterday, swirled around and pitched yesterday afternoon. By lunch time today it'll be 24 hours. I've looked at the brew this morning and there doesn't appear to be any activity whatsoever. How long should I give this yeast before I need to think about repitching? Don't wanna spoil this beer as it smells awesome.
  7. I'm not concerned about the bitterness I just don't want to miss out on the hop flavours and aromas from a whirlpool addition at too low a temp
  8. Glad this topic was raised as I've got a similar question about whirlpool hops. This morning I did a quick partial mash brew to go with a tin of extract. Quick fridge filler for the warmer weather. Turned the flame off and moved the pot into the sink and put some cold water around it. As it was a partial mash, I'd frozen some 3 ltr ice cubes ahead of time. I dumped one into the wort and stored it until it melted, with the idea of dropping temp to 80 degrees for my whirlpool addition. Trouble is, it dropped it to about 45-50 degrees. I didn't have time to stuff around so I dumped the hops in anyway and gave it a good stir and let it sit for 15mins before transferring into the FV. Will this have any bad effect on my final beer? I'm just worried I won't get the flavour and aroma to its full potential as the temp was a lot lower than required.
  9. Maybe get 2 smaller cubes, do your mash/boil and bittering addition with the magnum, then don't add any hops at whirlpool. Transfer half and half of the batch into 2 cubes, then add cube hops of different combos of what you have on hand and see how a they compare with their own respective dry hops.
  10. That sounds good then cheers mate. I've run with your grain bill using the suggested ingredients and percentages listed above. Just to a total of 3kg to use in my smaller pot. The amounts are not too different from my last batch relating to total grain. Your grain bill is also very similar to another thread on here from ages ago where the OP on that had made a pirate life pale ale clonenwith great success, so that's a win for me too. My mash was gonna be 66 degrees so your last bit of advice has got me on board with that. The hops I'm planning on using are relatively new, Hort 4337, which I think from checking online are about 11.5% AA, so I've used a hop rated to 12% on brewers friend to work out a rough hop chedule to get me around 30 or so IBU. I tasted a new release single hop IPA using this hop at a local brewery recently, straight out of the bright tank (wasn't on tap or bottled at the time) and it was amazing.
  11. Also, do the suggested grain bills above give decent mouth feel? My first biab felt a bit thin like something was missing once I drank it.
  12. I've got my hands on some Azacca Cryo hops (which are high alpha acid) and some Hort 4337 hops. These both smell amazing when I open my fridge so I want to make something that will let these dominate rather than the malt. I use RO water bit haven't played with water chemistry yet. Would using a small amount of acid malt like Kelsey suggested cause any issues?
  13. Thanks Kelsey. Didn't think anyone was going to offer any advice. Cheers.
  14. I'm after suggestions for a decent, yet simple grain bill to make either a pale ale or IPA that will showcase either a single hop or combo of a neutral bittering hop and big late additions of another. I only use a 19ltr big W pot so I could scale down to suit. I've only done 1 all grain biab in this pot so far as I've always done kits n bits or partial mash. Hoping to get something that's 5% ABV or above that's got decent mouth feel, but is also smashable now it's warming up. Can anyone suggest something which could be useful? Not fussed if it's hazy (like NEIPA) or not. Thanks.
  15. I've been given some Azacca Cryo Hops to try out in a brew. I haven't used these before or heard much about them. Can anyone suggest a good recipe they could be put to good use in? Cheers.
  16. @MUZZY just go for a drive to Mildura for the weekend. Get your Stein, then stop at the Woolshed brewery before Renmark and it'd be a useful trip.
  17. I thought it was a bit high, but it didn't budge at all after that length of time. I kept it at a constant 18 degrees throughout fermentation and dry hop. I rarely raise the temp to 21 like some suggest but I've found it isn't needed most of the time. The jar is just on the kitchen bench. I've tipped the water out tonight and added another litre of preboiled water. See if this cleans it up a bit. I have washed yeast with 2 separate portions of water before to remove darker wort and that's turned out. Hopefully my beer isn't underdone and too sweet as this is my first attempt at an all grain biab. The figures I put into an online calculator estimated a FG of 1014 so I figured it was close enough to the mark.
  18. I bottled yesterday, the beer had an OG of 1052 and FG of 1016 using 1 pack of rehydrated US-05 yeast. After bottling I did the usual, dumped 1 ltr of preboiled and cooled water in, swished trub around and transferred to a mason jar. I've kept an eye on the yeast and I'm wondering if it's started fermenting in the jar again. As it's settled, in starting to see little balls/clunps of yeast rising to the top, then sliding down the outside of the jar. I've swished it around again once more and let it re-settle but it's doing it again. Haven't had this happen before. There's also no clear line separating the actual yeast and trub. In the past it's usually quite easy to define between the 2. Anyone else able to explain this? Just concerned I may have some bottle bombs on the way. The SG was stable for 2 days, so I dry hopped for a week in chux cloth, then cold crashed for 3 days prior to bottling.
  19. Yeah I used CCA yeast mate. It was never gonna be the same because there's no Melba hops around anywhere due to that fire or whatever it was that killed the crop off. Either way, in sure an all grain version would be a good little experiment
  20. I've just started doing biab in small stove top batches. Has anyone managed to clone this delicious beer with an all grain recipe? I've done the extract recipe listed on this website, substituting the can of APA for Mexican cervesa to make it closer to the right colour, but it was still a bit different.
  21. I've got a couple of my young fella's building blocks chocked under the front of the FV so it tilts back at an angle. Hopefully whatever trub is blocking the tap will slide out. Might have to CC this one to prevent blockage whilst bottling.
  22. Well I've got no choice. I fly out in the morning so I'll have to drop a hop sock in. I usually brew 20 odd litres. This one is only 11.5, probably 10 when u factor in trub loss etc. Would 20g dry hop be enough? I usually do between 50-80 grams for a full size batch
  23. I suppose I could tilt it back n put a block of wood or something under the tap. Doesn't explain why the slurry on top hasn't dropped off yet though. I wonder if it's still slowly fermenting away. It's been on a constant 18 degrees the whole time with the fridge, inkbird & heatbelt combo
  24. I put down my first BIAB a week ago yesterday. Ended up being an 11.5 ltr batch once into the FV, OG of 1052, pitched a pack of rehydrated US-05 yeast. I've had a sample in my hydrometer since about 4 days in. The sample has gradually fallen, today it's at 1016. However, I haven't dry hopped yet. I was going to do that tonight before I fly out for a few days away. Problem is, I can't take another sample for the hydrometer, the tap is blocked. I've never had this issue before. Also, it appears the yeast hasn't dropped. There's still a thick layer of slurry on top of the brew. See pictures. What should I do? I'm thinking the fermentation isn't finished and/or stalled. I don't want to open this brew up to infection, how can I unblock the tap? This fv is one of the 25 ltr blue round water drums from Bunnings with the standard white tap.
  • Create New...