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Everything posted by karlos_1984

  1. Would there be any benefit of raising the temp from 18 to 21 degrees then? Seems to have stalled at about 1032.
  2. Yeah well 1050 is what the hydro said. I usually add 5 points to whatever the reading is as it's out of calibration in 20 degree water.
  3. This is what I normally do. Just had another thought. I wonder if my mash temp dropped too much, not converting enough sugars? My mash temp was about 67 degrees, but when I checked it after 60 mins it'd dropped down to below 60. Could this be part of the issue perhaps?
  4. Took a sample, SG is at 1032. Doesn't appear to be anything else sparking up though. FML
  5. I've already thrown another kit yeast in this morning.
  6. Not yet. Waiting for the trub to settle down after swirling it and I'll take another sample. The reharvested yeast had been in the fridge for a couple weeks. I posted about it on another thread. The kit yeast was prob 12 months old in the packet but it's been in the fridge the whole time.
  7. I did a small biab on the stove last week. Cubed it for 4 days before transferring to the FV, and pitched harvested US-05 yeast. The OG was 1050. 2 days later I had zero signs of fermentation. I used a sanitised spoon and stirred in a packet of kit yeast in attempt to get something happening. Checked again this morning, still nothing. I've given the FV another swirl to try and get something happening. The FV is in my fermentation fridge set to 18 degrees. What else can I do to salvage this beer? I've never had this happen before. It's only a 10.5 litre batch but I'm not getting my hopes up.
  8. I've reactivated CCA yeast on 3 separate occasions. All have worked brilliantly. However when I make mine up from the stubbies, I usually use the yeast from a minimum of 8 beers instead of 6, just to give it a better chance of getting started and avoid underpitching. I make my syrup up first and actually tip a bit of it into the stubbies and swirl it around before decanting the yeast in the bottom of the bottle. Seems to stop any of it being left behind stuck to the bottom.
  9. Yeah I swapped lids and give it a test and seems to have done the trick. See how the beer turns out, might sack this cube otherwise.
  10. So the wort I cubed the other day, it appears my lid doesn't actually seal 100%. I'd noticed the wort level had dropped slightly from being chock-a-block full. I cracked the lid and squeezed the cube and refit the lid, only to hear a faint hiss, suggesting the seal wasn't air tight and was letting air in. The wort sat in this cube for about 4 days. I ended up chucking it into the FV and pitching yeast yesterday. Do u reckon it'll be alright?
  11. Muzzy, not to burst your bubble, but I've brewed a can of pale ale with be2 and CCA yeast before. It's nothing special. I'm still finding bottles of it in the cupboard, can't seem to get rid of it as it's rather boring. I'd definitely recommend dry hopping it with something. Cascade, Citra or mosaic would be a good idea.
  12. I might not dry hop, as there will be floaties even after CC. I could dry hop and transfer into another bottle for carbonation though, it's all just trial and error. Not expecting amazing beer but U never know. Sometimes stuff ups or little experiments turn out better than u expect
  13. I was going to chuck this leftover litre or so of wort, but I thought I might as well experiment with it. It's been in the jar for 2 days. I've sanitised 2 of the brown PET bottles I never use and transferred the leftover wort into these, leaving plenty of head room. I've chucked half a pack of kit yeast into each bottle and put the lids on loosely and popped them into my fermentation fridge. Figured I might as well give it a go rather than tip it. I'll prob chuck some dry hops into them and cold crash the bottles and then just use a carb drop in them once they're back to room temp. Once they're carved I'm hoping chilling them will settle the trub enough to pour off the good stuff into a glass. If it doesn't work or it turns out shit I've not lost anything, might as well give it a crack.
  14. I've always hated the amount of water wastage with brewing. Even an ice bath of my pot in the sink is enough wastage. I can't justify the waste involved in using immersion chillers. What happens to all the water that runs out hot afterward? Does it just go down the drain?
  15. I brewed an AG biab again today, however the end result was more volume than my cube could handle. I tipped the remaining litre or so into a cleaned and sanitised mason jar. It's not completely full and there's some air space at the top. It's been left to chill overnight in my fermenting fridge. Would it be alright to add to the FV with the cubed wort once they're at the right temp, or is it too big a risk for the sake of only a litre or so, which will have a bit of the trub as it was from the bottom of the pot.
  16. I've got a kit n bit on the go in the FV to test out Azacca cry hops. Cooper's Mexican cervesa can 1kg ldme 0.5kg wheat DME 250g light crystal 100g carapils 21 ltrs, CCA yeast. Steeped/sparged grains at 68 degrees. 12 ltr boil with all the ldme. Boiled for 20 mins with a 20g Azacca cryo addition at 5 mins and 50g at FO/whilpool. I've got 50g Azacca cryo hops remaining to dry hop with. I've got 30g Amarillo and a heap of galaxy on hand too. Should I just use the Azacca Cryo or chuck a bit of the other 2 hops into the dry hop as well?
  17. If I pour off half, can I just top the jar up with sterile water for the rest to keep back in the fridge?
  18. So I recently brewed my first all grain BIAB in my 19ltr big W pot on the stove. I ended up with about 11.5 ltrs in the FV and pitched a whole pack of US05 yeast (rehydrated). The picture below is what I ended up harvesting from this batch. It's been washed and let settle 3 times prior to being fridged in this 500ml jar. To me, this looks like a lot of yeast to have been harvested from such a small batch. I've never had this much before from any batch, which are usually 21 ltrs. The most I usually get in these jars is about 2-3cm from the bottom. I'm going to brew another BIAB batch soon, using the same method. Is this too much yeast to pitch the whole lot? It'll be about 1055 OG if I hit my numbers. If I pitch the whole lot, will it do more ha then good? I could pitch half I suppose, but I'm mindful of under pitching. Any suggestions please.
  19. https://www.jamessquire.com.au/craft-beer/one-fifty-lashes/ The website states the hops used are: Amarillo, Willamette, Nelson Saigon and Galaxy. Maybe have a play around with those if you're trying to replicate something like this.
  20. I've had mixed results and have tried various methods. In my initial brews, I was using a Muslim cloth hop sock to dry hop with to contain them. My beers all tasted the same regardless of what hops used. Trial and error found that the cause was the hop sock wasn't properly cleaned in between batches, cashing dodgy flavours. I no longer use this method. To get around the issue, I use the chux cloth method now. I basically cut a cloth in half, then cut a strip off one end. I dunk it all in star san, ring it out and place over a small bowl that's been sanitised also, then drop my weight of hops in and bundle it up, tieing it all off with the strip of chux I'd cut off earlier. I don't put more than 25g in per bundle (to allow for expansion) and have used up to 4 at a time for about a 100g total dry hop. Once done, I sanitise my hands and pull them out and squeeze them to get all the Hoppy goodness out then just chuck them in the compost. I've had the best results using this method and have done so for the last 8 or so brews so far. I have dry hopped commando as well in the past. This also works well for flavour and aroma, however I stopped doing it because it takes longer from brew day to drinking it because I'd cold crash it to drop everything out. I'd then use a sanitised food grade hose with a sanitised grain bag lining a secondary FV, and transfer from the primary to secondary via the hose. This caught a lot of hop debris in the process and stopped the floaties getting transferred into the bottle. Regardless of what I've read and from experience, cold crashing will not stop hop debris completely. Doing this transfer and filter using a grain bag was the only way I could prevent it. Obviously this added a lot more time to bottling day, and prevented me from being able to harvest and reuse yeast. Hence why I've stuck to the chux cloth method. Sorry for the long winded post. Hopefully it helps U out.
  21. Yeah nah that's fair enough. All depends on how often u sink frothies anyway I suppose. Some more than others obviously
  22. U blokes with kegs setup, have u worked out how many schooners (425ml) or pints (585ml) you get out of a keg? Does the beer keep better for longer periods being chilled and kegged as apposed to storing in glass bottles in a cupboard at ambient temps?
  23. I'd like to let the CCA yeast do it's thing as I like the taste it imparts on the beer. I had another look just then and there's now a thicker white head forming on top right across the whole top of the wort so hopefully she'll be right mate.
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