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karlos_1984

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Everything posted by karlos_1984

  1. Lusty my main concern is that the krauzen hasn't really kicked off and climbed up the side of the FV like the last brew and the pasty looking fermentation matter is still just lingering on top of the brew. Shouldn't this drop off and settle over time? I've still got to dry hop before bottling this batch. The FV is sitting in a big laundry bucket wrapped in a wet towel, if I pick it up n move it to get a sample for the hydrometer will that harm what's going on inside?
  2. Just out of interest, what are the signs for a stuck fermentation and how do u fix it? This batch doesn't appear to have changed much in the last few days and the krauzen hasn't risen at all. Still have slow moving bubbles and a thick looking paste on top but it's just not getting any bigger like my last batch did.
  3. For capping stubbies & longnecks, which capper do you guys use or recommend? The handheld ones or the bench top lever type? Got a brew going at the moment n need to get a capper before it reaches FG as my plastic bottles are still being used.
  4. Thanks for the advice. At the moment the krauzen isn't really rising any higher but it's still bubbling away. Will see what happens I guess. Cheers.
  5. Awesome, thanks for that. Looks a fair bit different and more aggressive compared to the Coopers kit yeast I've used. Do I have to wait for the krausen to drop before dry hop and bottling?
  6. Just a question about the fermentation and krausen. I put together a brew on Sunday, to which I added re-hydrated US-05 yeast, pitched at 21 degrees. The yeast had formed into a paste/cake when pitched. I don't have the means for temp controlled fridge. It's a bit hot here in Adelaide so I've put the FV in a laundry bucket and wrapped it in a thick beach towel. I’ve been wetting the towel down with cold water and sit ice bricks in between the towel and the bucket. My infra-red thermometer is telling me the FV is remaining about 21-23 degrees. The beers fermenting away nicely as of Monday. From this point, there’s a section on top of the beer that has turned from the regular foam bubble to more of a thicker paste, darker brown in colour. It is still slowly forming larger bubbles, but is this anything to worry about? Was thinking maybe that side of the FV is too cold from the ice bricks or something??
  7. I ended up brewing this on Sunday. Used all 1kg of brew enhancer and dropped the 20min hop additions to only 15g each. I rehydrated the US-05 yeast and pitched at 21 degrees. I don't have the means for temp controlled fridge or cold crashing. It's a bit hot here in Adelaide this week. I've put the FV in a laundry bucket and wrapped it in a thick beach towel. I wet the towel down with cold water and sit ice bricks in between the towel and the bucket. My infra red thermometer is telling me the FV is remaining about 21-23 degrees. The beers fermenting away nicely as of Yesterday. Today though, the back 3rd of the yeast has turned from the regular foam bubble to more of a thicker paste, darker brown in colour. It is still slowly forming larger bubbles, but is this anything to worry about? Was thinking maybe that side of the FV is too cold from the ice bricks or something??
  8. Would this work? Cooper's lager can 1kg BE1 250g caramalt 1kg LDM US-05 ale yeast 1. Steep caramalt in 2 ltrs water at 70 degrees for 30 mins 2. Separate grains, top up to 6 litres and bring to boil for 20 mins with 500g of the LDM 3. 20g Cascade, 20g Galaxy, 15g Citra @20 mins 4. Further 5g of each hop above at flameout. 5. Add wort to FV with lager can, 1kg BE1 and remaining LDM 6. Top up to 23ltrs, pitch US-05 yeast @ about 18-20 degrees. 7. Ferment for 2 weeks and add dry hop of 15 to 20 grams of each cascade, galaxy and Citra 4 days prior to bottling. I'm not really schooled up on ianh spreadsheet so not sure if this recipe would be any good or how it would turn out, too Hoppy? or if the 2kg of fermentables would be a problem with just one pack of yeast. (Could add the Cooper's yeast as well I suppose) I just wanted to use up the lager tin and the BE1 but got some extra stuff at the LHBS so figured I'd try and make something good. Any thoughts or adjustment recommendations?
  9. I do prefer the American IPA over the English. I was thinking of combining come cascade and Citra hops to this brew. Not sure on the amounts of need for a boil and dry hop though. Any suggestions with the above ingredients from.my earlier post? I'd be inclined to sub out the BE1 for LDM instead.
  10. Hey guys. About to brew my 2nd batch in my Cooper's fv and just want to double check how I need to clean it prior to mixing up a batch. When I bottled my first brew, I just rinsed all the sludge out of the FV and re-rinsed a couple times with hot water and gave it a wipe with a clean cotton cloth, then rinsed with star San, drip dried and put away. I also noticed there were some really fine scratches on the inside bottom of the FV, which can only have been from the mixing spoon I presume? Do I just need to rinse with star San before I make up another brew or should I get some sodium precarbonate and wash the FV with this first? If so what's the method to doing this? Cheers.
  11. How did this turn out? I'm currently drinking my batch of this same IPA but dry hopped with 50g of galaxy. It's ok, not bad for my first brew, but I think it's missing something. Could use a bit more body. Plus, I prefer the American IPA style over this English based IPA. Prefer the fruit aromas and flavours over the bitterness of the English style.
  12. Thanks for that. This will only be my 2nd brew so have a couple newb questions if I were to follow your advice. 1. With steeping the grains (250g) how much water would I use? 1 litre be enough? 2. For the boil, am I assuming correctly that I'd bring the liquid from the steep to the boil, then add the hops and turn off the heat after 15 mins only? (Rather than a 60 min boil with only a single hop addition). Am I meant to add the DME to the boil as well? (I read somewhere that to get bitterness from the hop boil u needed to have some of the malt added as well?) 3. If I wanted to make it a bit fruitier, would dry hopping with an additional hop variety be recommended? Thanks for the advice. In any case your above recipe sounds like a massive improvement. Cheers
  13. Hey guys. Ive seen a few similar posts about the Cooper's original lager tin but thought I'd throw out what ingredients I've got left lying around to hopefully get some suggestions. I'm hoping to make a nice summer ale, something crisp to enjoy on a hot day that isn't too filling. I don't mind the idea of a higher ABV then a session beer though. So here's what I have left. 1 x Cooper's OS Lager tin 1KG box of BE1, 500 gm of Caramalt grains (EBC: 30-60) 50 gm (approx) Galaxy Hop pellets. I'd like to make use of the above ingredients but I'm open to adding some extra LDM or dextrose if need be. I did read another recipe on an older thread using a combo of cascade and galaxy which sounded good. Any suggestions would be great. Cheers.
  14. Just watched this, nice job. Will be keen to see the end result and hopefully the trademark double thumbs up when u do the tasting video. Nice one mate.
  15. I've just bottled my first batch in the Cooper's plastic bottles but while it was fermenting I've downs 2 cartons of John Boston IPA and kept the bottles for my next batch. They seem sturdy enough and we're on spesh at uncle Dan's so it made sense. I've got a few stray Cooper's long necks and a couple Peroni bottles as well but not sure on the green glass. I've got 2 x 0.95 litre glass "squealer" bottles with a screw top lid that I used to takeaway tap beer from a local brewery. Would these be suitable for bottling if u got the priming rate right?
  16. Ended up trying the LHBS and got one for $5 which is exactly the same as the Cooper's kit one but it's got a spring in the end that forces the valve shit to stop leaks. Should be right.
  17. Great minds think alike. I literally unpacked the dishwasher after my post yesterday and had a lightbulb moment when the dishwasher was empty n though "yeah that would totally work" I was checking the bottle filling tube as well and found when it was filled with water, it leaked dreadfully. I'm.a bit reluctant to use it because it woukd not hold the water in the tube at all, I don't want to waste a heap of beer between changing each bottle..I know some drops are expected but this thing was hopeless and the little stem/plug thing in the bottom wasn't sealing properly. Is this just because the water isn't as dense as the brew liquid? Where else could I get a bottle filler that would fit the Cooper's fv tap? Was going to bottle this friday
  18. So my first batch is done fermenting. Just about to dry hop for 2 or 3 days and need some advice about bottling. This is the first time I've used this kit which was brand new. That being said, do I have to wash out or sanitise the 30 plastic PET bottles that came with the kit? I don't have a bottling dryer/tree thingy, what's the easiest way to get around this? I'm assuming that all the bottles will need to be completely dry inside to avoid any issues, is this correct? Or is it safe to just tip some star San into each bottle then just shake, rinse and tip it out and then just fill them with the wort and carb drops? The house is a bit of a shambles this week due to new baby arriving so I don't really have the room (or express consent from the minister of finance) for 30 bottles to be lying around drying. Cheers.
  19. Cheers for that info Otto. I'll just wait u til FG is stable then just pick a bottling day and dry hop 3 days prior. Thanks for the advice.
  20. No worries. I was thinking of leaving it in the FV a little longer than what's on the instructions so long as doing so won't have e any adverse effects on the beer. I want to dry hop this batch with about 40g or so of galaxy hops. Lady at the LHBS said to do that about 4-5 days prior to bottling. All a guessing game really...
  21. Brew is fermenting away nicely. I removed the towel I'd wrapped around the FV as we had a bit of a heat spike in the weather. The wort is looking very cloudy, is completely opaque and kind of looks like mud. It's day 4 today and the smell is almost like a cider but a day or so ago the smell was definitely more of a hop aroma. I'm assuming this is all good? Also, recipe says ferment for 6 days at least. When is usually a good time to remove the krauzen collar? Again, first brew so don't know otherwise...
  22. Hi Christina. I must be on the right track before you posted those tips. The milk crate I'm using has a piece of 15mm ply fixed to it, sort of a makeshift little stand or table if u like. The crate is sitting on the tiled floor tucked under the stairs in between my freezer and my travel fridge. I put a towel over the timber table top, sat the FV on top then let it sit overnight like that after pitching the yeast. The following morning I was concerned it was too cold overnight so I've since wrapped a big beach towel around the FV and I'm on day 3 now and it's bubbling away and foaming up nicely. We did have a big heat spike here yesterday though. Stick on thermometer reads 24-26 but the rooms ambient temp is about 20 so I'll leave it be.
  23. Funny you should say that. As it was my first, I intended to pick up the FV and swirl it around to dissolve the LDM when it was dropped in, but i wasn't quick enough and got the dreaded hard lumps of malt, so i was stirring that for bloody ages before I added the can and started topping it up. It all dissolved in the end. Hope your right about the temp. I've been out most of the day and have come home and can see there's much more going on in there now since warming it this morning and wrapping it with the towel. There's a lot of bubbles on top and there seems to be a bit more foam looking matter on top. The stick on thermometer is showing both blue and brown on 20 and 22. Not sure what this means. I might just take the gamble and leave things as they are and see how it goes. At the end of the day, if it doesn't turn out because it's too cold then I might make up a lager before it warms up too much and just make another IPA or similar once summer hits. Still tossing up buying the temp controller and heat belt, might be a good investment after all.
  24. Thanks for the quick reply. I just did a reading with the hydrometer for the water I used, its just about 20 degress straight out of the tap (filtered). I think the hydrometer must be out, as shown in the picture attached. Hopefully my OG isn't too far off the mark given the hydrometer might be a bit out of whack. Re the temp control, I was thinking about a heat belt, but can these be used with a temp controller?(see both links) I would ideally like to just set and forget. Care these useful like in my situation where the FV is not sitting in an enclosed space like a fridge or cupboard? If i buy these 2 items off ebay today ($70 approx) they likely wont arrive in the post for about 4 days. Will this be too long to wait to start using them (ie will the brew be spoiled if left at the colder temp for that long before bumping up temp). http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Free-Shipping-Home-Brew-Heat-Heating-Belt-Pad-for-fermenter-Beer-Wine-Spirits-/291759162677?epid=503851854&hash=item43ee338535:g:XHYAAOSw3zxXL~ge https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-PLUG-240V-ITC-308S-Digital-Temperature-Controller-thermostat-temp-heater-/322181962638?hash=item4b038a9b8e:g:rX8AAOSwGdhZl92k
  25. Hey guys, first post but been reading these forums for awhile before having a crack at my first brew. Just have a couple questions, hopefully some of you may put my mind at ease. So yesterday afternoon I brewed my first brew, the TC Brew A IPA, just followed the recipe, with the intention of dry hopping with some galaxy hop pellets a few days before bottling. At the moment it's just the brew can, 1.5 kg of LDM, using the Coopers yeast. I'm not too trusting of the stick on thermometer that comes with the FV. When I was topping the FV up to 23 ltrs, the stick on thermometer was reading about 28 - 30 degrees. However, I was dipping a sanitised probe thermometer into the wort as I was topping it up. At 23 ltrs, this thermometer was reading about 23 degrees, so I took an OG reading, pitched the yeast and put the collar/lid on. The stick on thermometer was still reading about 28 degrees at the time. I have a couple issues. Firstly, the OG should be 1046 according to the instructions. My OG reading was 1043, any possible causes for this and will it be an issue? When I got up this morning, it doesn't look like much is happening in the way of fermentation. The stick on thermometer was reading only 20 degrees. The FV is just sitting on a milk crate under my staircase, which is just an open area and a tiled floor. The other day I took an ambient temp reading from this area using the kids little duck bath thermometer thing (don't judge, it's prob not the most accurate but you work with what you've got haha) and it was between 16 - 18 degrees. I read on another post on here that this range was considered good for ale fermentation, or is it too cold for what I'm doing? I'm concerned the yeast hasn't gone to work because it's too cold and the batch might be a write off already. The recipe recommends fermenting at 21 degrees. I got the Mrs hair dryer and warmed the FV up a bit and I've wrapped a big beach towel around the FV (kept the collar/lid free to move with fermentation) hoping this might keep it warm enough to start fermenting. Had a look a couple hours later and the stick on thermometer is still reading 20 degrees. How long should it take to start seeing signs of fermentation and a build up on the collar? Am I jumping the gun a bit thinking there should be anything noticeable the morning after brewing? Should I look at getting a heat belt and temperature controller to keep on this FV given the ambient temp where its sitting? Is the temp ambient range I'm working with too cold or am I being paranoid in these early stages? I can't really move it anywhere else in the house or shed due to lack of room and more importantly due to strict orders from the minister of finance... Any help/advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Cheers guys.
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