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karlos_1984

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karlos_1984 last won the day on November 26 2018

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  1. @MUZZY just go for a drive to Mildura for the weekend. Get your Stein, then stop at the Woolshed brewery before Renmark and it'd be a useful trip.
  2. I thought it was a bit high, but it didn't budge at all after that length of time. I kept it at a constant 18 degrees throughout fermentation and dry hop. I rarely raise the temp to 21 like some suggest but I've found it isn't needed most of the time. The jar is just on the kitchen bench. I've tipped the water out tonight and added another litre of preboiled water. See if this cleans it up a bit. I have washed yeast with 2 separate portions of water before to remove darker wort and that's turned out. Hopefully my beer isn't underdone and too sweet as this is my first attempt at an all grain biab. The figures I put into an online calculator estimated a FG of 1014 so I figured it was close enough to the mark.
  3. I bottled yesterday, the beer had an OG of 1052 and FG of 1016 using 1 pack of rehydrated US-05 yeast. After bottling I did the usual, dumped 1 ltr of preboiled and cooled water in, swished trub around and transferred to a mason jar. I've kept an eye on the yeast and I'm wondering if it's started fermenting in the jar again. As it's settled, in starting to see little balls/clunps of yeast rising to the top, then sliding down the outside of the jar. I've swished it around again once more and let it re-settle but it's doing it again. Haven't had this happen before. There's also no clear line separating the actual yeast and trub. In the past it's usually quite easy to define between the 2. Anyone else able to explain this? Just concerned I may have some bottle bombs on the way. The SG was stable for 2 days, so I dry hopped for a week in chux cloth, then cold crashed for 3 days prior to bottling.
  4. Yeah I used CCA yeast mate. It was never gonna be the same because there's no Melba hops around anywhere due to that fire or whatever it was that killed the crop off. Either way, in sure an all grain version would be a good little experiment
  5. I've just started doing biab in small stove top batches. Has anyone managed to clone this delicious beer with an all grain recipe? I've done the extract recipe listed on this website, substituting the can of APA for Mexican cervesa to make it closer to the right colour, but it was still a bit different.
  6. I've got a couple of my young fella's building blocks chocked under the front of the FV so it tilts back at an angle. Hopefully whatever trub is blocking the tap will slide out. Might have to CC this one to prevent blockage whilst bottling.
  7. Well I've got no choice. I fly out in the morning so I'll have to drop a hop sock in. I usually brew 20 odd litres. This one is only 11.5, probably 10 when u factor in trub loss etc. Would 20g dry hop be enough? I usually do between 50-80 grams for a full size batch
  8. I suppose I could tilt it back n put a block of wood or something under the tap. Doesn't explain why the slurry on top hasn't dropped off yet though. I wonder if it's still slowly fermenting away. It's been on a constant 18 degrees the whole time with the fridge, inkbird & heatbelt combo
  9. I put down my first BIAB a week ago yesterday. Ended up being an 11.5 ltr batch once into the FV, OG of 1052, pitched a pack of rehydrated US-05 yeast. I've had a sample in my hydrometer since about 4 days in. The sample has gradually fallen, today it's at 1016. However, I haven't dry hopped yet. I was going to do that tonight before I fly out for a few days away. Problem is, I can't take another sample for the hydrometer, the tap is blocked. I've never had this issue before. Also, it appears the yeast hasn't dropped. There's still a thick layer of slurry on top of the brew. See pictures. What should I do? I'm thinking the fermentation isn't finished and/or stalled. I don't want to open this brew up to infection, how can I unblock the tap? This fv is one of the 25 ltr blue round water drums from Bunnings with the standard white tap.
  10. I did my first biab earlier this week and I sat the bag in a strainer over the pot, then put the straiber/bag over a large bowl to sparge. I squeezed a few times and the extra wort Brought the preboil volume up to my target level. Will see how it turns out.
  11. Try it in water first. Taste the water, then drop your chiller in for a few days then have another taste. That should give u an indication without having to waste any beer. If the water taste is affected you could probably run it thru one of those filter jug things and fix it up.
  12. Last time I didn't do the ice bath for the sake of a FO/whirlpool hop addition and it took a lot longer to cool. Probably could have just tipped straight into the FV and left it in the fridge for those few hours. I've done that before overnight and had no dramas.
  13. I actually did this yesterday as well. I've got a 15 ltr cube and after the boil I had 13.5 ltrs. I did a quick ice bath in the sink to drop it to 80 degrees for the FO/whirlpool hop addition, then transferred to the cube after 15 mins. Put in the fermenting fridge and it was down to pitching temp about 5 hours later. Transferred to FV, aerated and pitched yeast. Simples .
  14. I didn't use any whirfloc or otherwise. Might have to cold crash this one.
  15. did me first biab on the stove yesterday. Ended up doing a 90min mash, then drained and sparged back up to 15 ltrs. I got a good rolling boil without the lid on as I think some of the hot break helped with having less surface area exposed. My boil off rate of 3 ltrs per hour as tested with just water the other day was higher than what eventuated this time. I boiled the wort uncovered and at the end of an hour had 13.5 ltrs remaining, so half of the rate I tested the other day. No chilled overnight and transferred to FV today, with 11.5 ltrs (loss from hops, break, trub). Preboil gravity was 1041 (15 ltrs), post boil gravity was 1052 (11.5 ltrs). Im guessing these are decent figures but not entirely sure. Should get me a 5%ish beer. Hopefully it turns out well.
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