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Everything posted by Norris!

  1. A new airlock?!?! It tracks everything, and reading about it has blown my mind. Seems a little pricey but still cool ashttps://www.plaato.io/
  2. I wonder what lime would do and taste like? I mean LME. Let me know how it turns out Archie.
  3. I use regular sugar and bulk prime. I like it pretty carbonated so I think I use 160g per 21l, but if you searcb for an ABV calculator it will give a precise amount. Use some hot water to dissolve the sugar, add it to bottle bucket, add your beer and then just bottle the batch. Norris
  4. Cheers Kelsey! I have been playing with the idea of getting 2 light malt extract cans and trying to add my own bittering and aromas and flavours. I know that I can brew a cerveza kit that will be good and a MJ Cider that turns out perfect, but like most on here, I want to try making something from scratch, well with extract at least. I have been looking at recipes on here but want to ensure I will make something drinkable. I know I like my beer crisp and without the esters you get from ales or high temp brewed beers. I want the bitterness low also. The more I look the more I think why not try the 2 cans bitter with a nuetral hop or choose 1 hop, and use that throughout for aroma and flavour. Just kind of want to put to use the things I have read and see if I can do it. What was your best kit and or extract you ever made? Norris
  5. How would you go about adding the hop additions? Would you do it when steeping the crystal? What hops would you suggest? One last one, what does saaz really taste and smell like used for bittering and for aroma or flavour
  6. Otto, I probably should of left the semantics part out, what I should have said was that BE2 is a good simple way to add fermentables, but some will say it is expensive and other ingredients work just as well if not better, like 1 kg of light dry malt.
  7. The Mexican Cerveza is one of my go to kits. I would make a few changes to your recipe and I think it will make it better. I grew up drinking beers like this, being from America. Down here they call it a lawn mower beer, I call it the taste of FREEDOM! 1. 21l batch. I never make 23L batches with this beer because it thins it out. 2. M54 Yeast by mangrove jacks. The kit yeast is great, but I have gotten excellent results with this yeast. It ferments out clean and highlights any hops you add. it is an ambient temp lager yeast, and I have used it 4 times so far and love it. If you have temp control, you might not need this yeast, but if not...you should use it. You can also toss in the pack from the kit, or save it. The kit yeast works great, in my humble opinion, but that tells you how well the M54 works. I have seen in a steam beer recipe and a lot of lager recipes that call for 2 packets of yeast for best fermentation, but with BE2 it should be able to chew through that easily, and it seems to do that. 3. BE2. I like BE2, others will disparage it, but when you look at the core of their issue it is usually semantics. For this style of beer the BE2 is pretty much recommended. If you want something stronger or maltier...sub out for 1kg of light dry malt. 4. +1 for letting it sit 2 weeks. Fermentation usually finishes quickly with these beers so maybe between days 3 to 5, when fermentation is 75% complete, raise the temp a few degrees, for 2 days. This is suppose to help the yeast clean up some off flavours and smells. I have done this with my last 2 batches, mainly because I was trying it out, NOT because I noticed any off flavours with this kit, but to ensure I would not get any off flavours. I have probably brewed this kit 7-8 times, and have always gotten good drinkable beer using kit or M54 yeast. 5. The next step depends on you, but I have had people taste a Corona and then taste one of my batches and they prefer my batches, due to the aroma and flavours, ( I am not making a clone but I find the aroma from Corona, and the like, are faint and maybe slightly spicy, which is not what I like at the moment) I dry hop on day 5-6, after letting it heat up and then removing it to come back to ambient temp, I have used 50G of Vic Secret that has come off smooth (but with a little bit of bitterness) and smells very fruity. I have used Citra, Galaxy and Cascade in 10g dry hops(each) and then with a 10g (each) hop tea added at bottling, that was a beautiful smelling drink that the guests quaffed down...hmmm something about pigs and steaks come to mind. Basically I was trying to hop the Cerveza up so that we did not need to add a lime, but people like lime/lemon in the beers and especially if you tell them it is a cerveza. What I found was that a drop of juice from an orange made the beer even better, made the hops explode and kind of reminded me of blue moons...kind of. So back to the point, dry hop at this stage and let them sit in there until bottling. If you want to make a beer that has HUGE hop aroma and flavour without the bitterness, try this a. 10-15g of Cascade, Galaxy and Citra, total of 30-45g. Maybe sub out cascade for vic secret. dry hopped b. 10g of cascade, galaxy and citra hop tea at botting for a total of 30g of hops. c. I have tried the Warhog hopped up beer and hated it's bitterness but loved the aromas and tastes from the hops, this has been the closest I have gotten to that without the bitterness. This batch really had a lot of aroma that hit you every time you had a drink. The best part was the lack of bitterness. Some would question the balance of the beer, but for me it was everything I was looking for but never knew it. (added this part to clarify) 6. Fine with gelatin on day 10 7. bulk prime on day 12 with a hop tea This brew will be drinkable 2 weeks after bottling, but as noted, will taste better after a month in the bottle and will get better over time. If you are kegging...drink it fast, as it seems like the hop aroma fades over time...CO2 scrubbing it...I don't know. I have never added a hop tea to a keg or dry hopped a keg but I have read, on here, that it will refresh the aromas. I hope your next batch turns out better.
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