Jump to content

Beervis

Coopers Club Members
  • Content count

    246
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Beervis

  1. I've looked at that recipe section a thousand times and must've missed this one - looks really nice. Will have to give it a go!
  2. Thanks, yes it's an interesting combination of flavours I wouldn't be sure what to expect either, but looks interesting for sure. Did you control the temp much or just let the saison go nuts? The last saison I made turned out ok, but I think I brewed it too cold so didn't end up with much of the characteristic saison estery taste. Did you find any one flavour dominating? That's what I'd be worried about not temp controlling at least a bit, the saison overtaking the hops/roast. I'm in the mood for experimenting at the moment, particularly if it involves the little fermenter, so I'll be giving this one a go!
  3. Beervis

    Brews all taste the same

    Some great advice has been given here already so I won't repeat it - just wanted to add that all my beers tasted the same before I got a brew fridge, except for one.. But they were all K+K's that were fermented with kit yeast and no temp control and no hops. I think the non-stout kits are often not that different anyway. I don't think your problem is infection. I suppose all infections aren't created equally, but you should be able to pick 'infected' flavours out of a beer pretty easily, and your neighbour and dad both seemed to like them. Anyone who's an experienced wine drinker would notice that immediately I reckon. Based off the recipes I'd like them too, sound like nice drops. And you're right, the amount of hops you're using should definitely be noticeable. I put a 10gm teabag of Galaxy into a 22L APA+ 1kg LDM (2 packs kit yeast) and it was very noticeable. The other day I did a steep of 30gms Chinook into a Bootmaker Pale Ale and it was the only thing I could taste taking SG. It was aggressive even, practically jumped out of the tub and gave me a slap. I'd recommend using an extra pack of yeast - I never bother rehydrating and I don't brew temps as low as Christina recommends and I still get good results. Not saying you shouldn't, definitely rehydrate, I'm just lazy and have read conflicting reports about the usefulness of it. I follow the Coopers recipes too and they generally recommend brewing ales at around 20 depending on recipe. I'm wondering if it's either not aging the beer enough - I'd give it 4 or 5 weeks - or whether it's your pallet. Do you usually drink like the most expensive most hoppy small batch wet hopped hazy IPA or whatever at your local craft pub place? Or exclusively drink DIPA's at home? To get some of those more aggressive hop flavours takes a lot more hops. AG recipes for big IPA's usually have heaps. Maybe it's that. 1 last thing - underpitched beers with lots of fermentables might taste a bit sweet. 2 last thing - kit taste/twang shouldn't be detectable under all those hops. Well not for me anyway and I think I'm pretty fussy This is a confusing one for sure!
  4. Beervis

    Two fermenters in fridge??

    I have one big Coopers fermentor and one craft size (10L) both going at once, and that works ok for me. You could try using the craft tub or a similar size to do small batches. What about using a plastic bucket style? You could probably find something at Bunnings that would do the trick. From what I've seen most of the dedicated fermentors are taller and skinnier than the retrofitted bucket style ones. I used to have an old one that was really just a plastic bucket fitted with a tap, and it was shorter and fatter.
  5. I suppose the easiest way would be to triple all ingredients up from 8.5L to 25.5L and use the collar, would end up being a pretty expensive beer to make. Could probably make an extract version for cheaper that would have a similar flavour profile. I've noticed that's what Mr Beer does in the states, they sell the Coopers 6 gallon fermentor, 30L whatever it is, but not the 1.7kg kits, so they ship all their 19/23L brews with 3 of the craft cans and some BE/grain/hop additions. That would be the easiest way, but I'm sure two cans plus extra malt and hops with a bit of fiddling would make an equally nice brew for a bit cheaper. And a bit more sessionable to boot. Could make it to 19L for example just with an extra kit can and maybe scaling up the hops a bit. I might try that I think for first experiment, then see how alcoholic it turns out and how it tastes. You'd like to hope that the taste test method is changing opinions... and I'd say it certainly is, given the success smaller breweries are having selling up to the big boys at the moment. But I think it'll take a while for our culture to change and catch up. There are plenty of ppl out there who've tried more flavourful beers but prefer the megaswill. There's always guys on the forums trying to make megaswill clones for example... I sometimes wonder how we went from being an English colony, that presumably imported nice beer brewing skills from the motherland, to a country that produces some of the worst commercial beer I've tried. It probably happened gradually, as companies adapted their recipes to cut costs and take advantage of tax arrangements that favour swill. I still remember when Pure Blonde first came out, some of my mates were raving about it, and I tried some and thought shit! It's getting worse! It's actually getting worse! Well it's not an issue anymore, I don't have to drink it, I can make something better and cheaper at home
  6. Beervis

    Question about Maltodextrin

    That seems like an awful lot of Maltodextrin, I'm no expert but I'd suggest using it in the quantities the Coopers magic beer boxes have - BE1, BE2, BE3. Maybe 250gms. From what I've read over my brew research journeys, most brewers don't use it and generally argue against it. Some more experienced brewers on here will be able to give better advice, but I'd suggest using steeping grains for more body instead if you can get them where you live, or maybe use 500gms of LDM and a box of BE3. Also malto won't replace the priming sugar because it can't ferment. Pretty sure I'm right about that. Paul
  7. Beervis

    Help getting brewing supplies in Canada

    Don't live there but wouldn't Mr Beer and Northern Brewer deliver pretty much everywhere in Canada? Mr Beer is the US subsidiary of Coopers. Unless Moose Jaw is way out in one of the northern provinces or something, in which case I guess the postage would be steep.
  8. Beervis

    Help with recipe terminology

    Thanks for the tips It seems like the easiest option is to find a good home brew store that caters well to AG brewers, they seem to have everything anyway so substitution not such an issue. I've done a bit more reading and the maltsters websites seem to be a good place for information and recipes too.
  9. Forgot to add, I think it's fair to say that the proliferation of ex-brewers around the place probably has something to do with shittily made kits. I mean if your first brew was one of the ROTM's brewed with temp control, you wouldn't be wanting to dump your beginners setup on the curb.
  10. I've been meaning to try a few experiments like that' date=' only I've got such a big backlog of ingredients I haven't had a free fermentor for ages. ROTM = Recipe of the Month. You can see them up above right at the top of the thread. They do free shipping, and come with different hops, grains and other bits and bobs each time. It's a really easy no fuss training wheels firmly attached way of learning more about brewing I find. Also the Coopers team seem to go to a lot of work fiddling with these recipes and trying to find interesting combinations of hops and spec grains. Nice of them to do the work for me [img']biggrin[/img] They do tend to sell out really quick though, one issue.
  11. Beervis

    using liquid malt extract

    Hey hey, it depends what you want to do. Most Coopers cans have a suggested recipe on the side which will make an OK beer with just the malt extract and the kit yeast. If you want a drier more commercial style less crafty beer you can add extra sugar/dextrose/corn sugar to it. Without the malt or with the malt. If you add extra sugar on top of the malt that will also make it a bit more alcoholic. Although malt produces a better taste I think. I'd suggest if you're just starting out, just do what it says on the tin and see what you think of it. I think the most simple thing you can do to add a bit extra is buy some of those teabag style finishing hops from a home brew store. They tell you how to use it on the packet and the people at the store would be able to recommend a style that suits your can. Very easy to use, cheap-ish and makes a better beer. Paul
  12. Beervis

    Help with recipe terminology

    others will just list generic names like 'Munich malt', crystal/chocolate/white wheat/peat smoked/vienna etc. I suppose I could just ask the dude at the LHBS for appropriate substitutes, but then that would be irritating for them, getting handed a bunch of recipes.
  13. Beervis

    Help with recipe terminology

    It's hard to think of anything off the top of my head because I've looked at hundreds of recipes.. BYO in the states has an awesome back catalogue of clone recipes for example. I'll just dig up a couple: 0.4 kg Weyermann Caramunich III 0.15 kg Weyermann Caraamber 0.14 kg Weyermann Carared Say with this one, if you can't find the Weyermann brand, then I'm at a loss... because all their product names would be trademarked I'm guessing. I know they are interchangeable (well I think they are) but yeah... confusing. I'll see if I can find another example
  14. Yeah even with temp control I can't imagine the 7gms would do the trick. Seems like lagers need more from most of the recipes I've looked at. Might give it a try with some saaz and extra lager yeast and keep the temp down. I'm playing around with ideas for a cheap cupboard filler at the moment.
  15. Beervis

    Help with recipe terminology

    On another recipe terminology question, I'm looking to make a few extract recipes, just to play around with and experiment with for fun. One thing that I find mind boggling though, is that there seems to be so many different names for the same types of steeping/mashing grains, different brands, different countries I guess, then you have the issue that heaps of home brew stores sell them pre-packaged and without specifying the exact type of grain, i.e 'stout pack', 'lager pack'. At the moment this is putting me off because it's so hard to buy this stuff online if you're not sure what you're buying. If you're going off say a US recipe that has LME and 3 or 4 steeping grains it's almost impossible to match them name for name with locally available products. Anyone seen a table or like a list of synonyms or something for grains? It seems to be one of those things that everyone who uses them 'just knows', same deal with the difference between spec grains and mashing grains, most suppliers and recipes don't really make it explicit which is which.
  16. Beervis

    Asperiment 2: Dirty Blonde

    I think you named it well, dirty is the word. Dirty and sugary probably, and hopefully delicious
  17. There are heaps and heaps of extract and partial mash type recipes all over the place if you want to make certain styles from scratch. I've had a harder time finding very simple extract recipes but they are around if you look hard enough. Like I've been googling stuff like 'cheapest extract recipe' . Some of the partial mash extract brews are so complicated you may as well go all grain I reckon. Anyhow, onto the kits, I've been brewing exclusively ROTM's apart from a couple of deliberately cheap brews this year, and I've found them to be by and large great beers. One of my craft beer snob friends was a little hard to convert but even he thought one of the IPA's tasted like a commercial quality brew. Some are better than others of course. But the Thomas Cooper series were designed to fit into the craft beer market as a kit and kilo alternative to expensive craft beer, and IMO they do that pretty well. Even just the IPA with 500gms LDM and 300gms DEX was quite drinkable. Obvs they're heaps better with a hop boil and steeped grains which is pretty much the ROTM method. From what I can gather people only really seem to use the OS for deliberately cheap brews or in toucans. One thing I would like to know, does anyone have any experience with the international series Euro lager? It has a lager yeast, wondering if the instructions say to brew low temp. as in, is it a genuine lager... I feel like if so that could make an OK lawnmower beer.
  18. Beervis

    20% off Coopers at Big W

    Might have to do that toucan stout I've been scheming about
×