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  1. Thanks @mickc. Yes, interesting DM's have obviously made a few changes overnight as they've now got a page up specifically for this deal: https://www.danmurphys.com.au/bundleoffers/beer/coopers-brew-kit-offer Each of their Coopers products that is eligible for this deal now has a 'Bonus Offer Available' link in it's display page - neither of these were up last evening - which considering the deal was launched the prior day (11th) is kinda shabby. Me thinks someone forgot to do it. Overall if you can get the BE3(which is the best value of the fermentables with 1kg overall size (50% LDME, 25% Dex, 25% Maltodextrin) or even the 500g LDME it knocks $6-8 off the price of each can bought. Making both the Original and International line waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper than I've ever seen them (and DM's prices on these are a few cents cheaper than TCC for the Original line and a few cents more expensive on the Intl line....$5 more on the TC line though :-/ So essentially if you're lucky with your local stores stock you can get a can of APA plus a BE3 for $15...which gives you the guts of many a mainstream recipe for perhaps the lowest price ever. Hard to turn up at that price - I grabbed 4 cans of APA and LDME boxes from my local. :-)
  2. Ok just got a reply from DM's staff member, which I don't think he'll mind me saying was a chap by the name of Samuel Beaulieu - might be handy to reference if you go instore. His reply was: So I tried to do a few test orders online and found that they seem to limit it to ONE free fermentable per order (regardless of whether you buy one or 100 cans of extract). Thats pretty poor IMHO as not specified at all in the promo and clearly implies it's one for each can you buy. SO........I placed 4 separate orders for one can of APA and got the free 500g LDME with it. There's no issue with placing multiple orders. So IF you want to order a few thats the best way I could find to work within the poor promo setup etc. Alas my local didn't have a very big range of Coopers DIY gear - though I've actually written to them several times over the past few years asking if they will improve their range as Coffs Harbour is a very big retirement area and thats exactly the demographic that the Coopers DIY products hit. Anyway hope this helps a few folks as if your local store has some stock of decent products you can get very good value via a few orders. Cheers, Nick
  3. Folks, Now was it just me or did any one else spot the Coopers & Dan Murphy's promo listed at the bottom of the AUG Coopers Club email? See attachment for it The gist of it was buy any Coopers extract can from DM's and get your choice of any of the Coopers fermentables boxes for free e.g BE1/2/3, LDME etc. In theory thats a relatively compelling deal as whilst DM's prices aren't as good as the Cooper's shop (which I just placed another order with this morning for the excellent ROTM) but they're not far off on the INT and ORIG range. So tack another $5-8 value onto those and it's a very good buy IF you're ok with the limited stock they might have in your local DM's. Now alas there's ZERO info about this online at either Coopers of DM's.......I went instore to my local DM's this morning and they knew NOTHING about it - which was rather embarrassing and was a PITA having made an hour round trip into town to stock up. So I called the DM's main switch number and spoke to a staff member there at ~0945 this morning.....again he knew nothing of the promo.....asked his supervisor but he also knew nothing about the promo. Asked me to email him the newsletter and promised he'd follow up for me and get back ASAP - nothing as of yet. So wondering if anyone has any further info on this promo??? Sorry to say it but at best it appears to have been poorly organised and the end provider doesn't know anything about it - at worst it might be a complete mistake/cockup. Has cost me an hour plus of my time so far so would welcome knowing what if anythings happening with it. Cheers and thanks in advance, Nick :-)
  4. Thanks OVB, I'll do it your way - appreciate the feedback. :-)
  5. Ah well looks like the temp bump etc etc couldn't budge the stall - still rock solid at 1.018 yesterday. Will give it another few days and then bottle. As per OVB's advice I will not worry about the late hop tea etc - unsure on whether to cold crash or not - leaning towards not simply as there's a very good level of flocculation already and with the yeast already having issues I don't want to take too much out of suspension just in case there's not enough viable stuff left to carbonate it properly. Figure with a stout there's marginal benefit either way, though took on board OVB's advice that he does still CC his stouts. Here's hoping bottling is a tad more under control than my debut effort. :-)
  6. Great replies and info folks - S-04 really does seem to have a tarnished reputation for stalling - does make me wonder why folks don't avoid it altogether - but anyway. I ended up bumping up to 21.0c, also gently rocked the still completely closed ferment chamber from side to side for several minutes. The rationale for this was to try and get some of the flocculated yeast off the bottom and back up into suspension & working - again read something about this as a 'might help a stall' on another forum. I'm using IanH's spreadsheet and based on the Australian/Export Stout and the volume of 24L it's telling me 120g of table sugar. Interestingly I wonder if Ian's spreadsheet is taking into account the 1-1.5L of trub that won't be bulk primed? And as such is calculating the amount of sugar needed on this lesser amount or is it mistakingly lumping it in? Not a big difference either way (perhaps 5% overall variation from 'perfection') but I'd assume any proper calculation should ONLY be based on the actual volume of beer to be bottled. Tying in with what Christina said there seems to be different techniques to use with stalls depending on where abouts in the overall ferment's duration they occur - early on you do different things to late in the process. Doing something late thats suited to early on e.g nutrient with DAP, aerating wort - can bring about other negative effects. The more I read up on 'stalls' the more I found myself thinking and the actual 'conclusion' of several articles on it was stalls are most easily handled by avoiding them altogether by pitching your yeast via a properly sized starter. Perhaps not an approach to use for every brew but for those where you know there's a high potential for a stall it'd be worth reconsidering if the lil extra effort is more than worth avoiding a mid-ferment patchup job. :-)
  7. @Christina and @Hairy, Much thanks for the quick responses - you've really got to love these forums. :-) I'm bumped the brew fridge up to 21.0c and will see if that does anything much. I'll keep pitching the extra yeast as a fallback position - based on Hairy's feedback - kind of an easy-middle ground trade off. I'll likely do the single PET bottle - though I'd hazard a guess that as this is only marginally off it's FG, which would be 1.010-1.012 - and as the bulk priming is to be relatively modest anyway - due to the style it's probably not in the 'high risk' of bottle bombs - like perhaps a more carbonated style. I'm using all Coopers longneck glass bottles so I'd be relatively confident they could take the bulk prime (which will be done a lil off whats recommended for the style) and any unfermented sugars pretty easily. Seems to make sense in theory anyway. :-) Much thanks again for the responses.....really appreciate them. :-)
  8. Hmmmm well alas the stall doesn't appear to have budged. It was 1.018 on 16FEB and as of a few minutes ago it was still 1.018. Thats just on 13 days in the fermenter too, so I'm a little unsure as to exactly whats the best path of action? I've maintained the temp in the brewfridge at 19.0c. Evidently it's meant to get down to 1.010, so not a massive difference and it drinks pleasantly - perhaps benefiting from the residual sweetness. Stouts obviously don't have a lot of carbonation - so I could just bulk prime at a marginally lesser rate - or is there another course of action I could take to try and get the SG down prior to bottling? e.g temps, more yeast etc? Thanks in advance for any feedback. Cheers, Nick
  9. Well for the SG was 1.018 the last 2 times I'd checked, ~48hrs apart. I figured it might be the dreaded S-04 stall. In hindsight I suppose I could have just kicked the temperature up a little , which is what I did - by 1c to 19c. But I'd read that adding a small amount of boiled yeast hulls can assist by giving the nutrients that a stall requires. From what I 'd read boiled yeast hulls are perfect for this - commercial yeast nutrients not so much as the DAP in them can cause issues later in the ferment (apparently only should be used in first 48hrs or so). Anyway boiled water, added ~4tsp of bakers yeast right out of the freezer, boiled again for another few mins - then as i hate opening a fermenter during primary I managed to pull the airlock out and put a very small funnels tip in (all starsan'd of course) and poured the still hot mix in. Put airlock back on, liberal Starsan everywhere - and gave the fermenter a few rocks from side to side. We'll see if it helps at all. :-)
  10. Excellent article, makes a lot of sense and very helpful (though I now feel much less than great about my rehydrated yeast taking ~40mins to be pitched yesterday!!!! :-( - much thanks for sharing.
  11. Christina, much thanks for your reply and feedback. Cheers, Nick :-) PS. Heard air filter bubbling away a few hours ago - which was a relief - went to the LHBS (as you TRY and support the buggers) but sure enough they didn't have any suitable yeasts in stock. Frustrating and does make me somewhat 2nd guess giving them more than my emergency buy's business as this is a bunch of times they've just not had whats needed in. Checked the spec sheet on S-04, which states it's best at 15-20c, so set the brewfridge to 18c, figure it's atleast a degree higher in the fermenter (even though I've adopted OVB's advise and anchored the metal tip of the temp probe into some ~10mm thick foam that I strap to the outside of the fermenter 1/2 way up).
  12. Well I put this brew down this morning. Used the recipe stated earlier after much help from Christina and others. In no particular order a few notes: - did 24hr cold steep of 100g of cracked Choc. Malt, amazed by how much colour & flavour came from this - used ~1L of 'warm' tap water (~50c) and then just placed in fridge. - rehydrated the Coopers yeast (which apparently is S-04)@27c in ~100ml cooled boiled water. Left it a tiny bit longer before pitching than I'd have liked ~40mins due to delays with brew, will have to rehydrate LATER next time. I know many folks see rehydrating as unnecessary but the % of yeast killed dry pitching make it a no-brainer IMHO ...IF done correctly. - ended up having ~24.5L in the fermenter as didn't properly take into account the volume taken up by the 1.7kg Irish Stout kit + 1.5kg Light LME. Silly error but still the numbers on it (based on Neil's spreadsheet) aren't much damaged by this. - Despite having ~20L of water chilled to ~16c I still ended up with the wort mix@28c being well above my desired ~21c temp (setting the brew fridge at 20c to allow for slightly higher internal temps). Again this is just a silly rookie mistake. Perhaps should have chilled the ~6L hot wort mix first but I always feel anxious to get into the fermenter ASAP. - Figure I'll leave it the 'full' 2 weeks minimum.....hopefully no dreaded S-04 stalls for me. Undecided on whether to add a lil Fuggles or EKR via dryhop or tea for a 'twist' - perhaps best to leave as 'classic' stout rather than stuff around with. - Is cold crashing something that should be used with a Stout? Overall, as #2 effort it was a lot more under control than my debut effort but still loads of room for improvement - especially as this was a tad more simple with no hop additions etc. Had been leaning towards a IPA or full bodied ale but read an article saying FEB was a good time to get your winter drinking beers down so thought this had to be the priority. Cheers, Nick
  13. PB2, Much thanks for providing this information :-) Would welcome those late hopping details as I think knowing it is good for the end user and really highlights the Cooper's product range. Thanks in advance for putting them up.
  14. FWIW I listened to that well known podcast where the founder of 5 Star Chemicals, the makers of Starsan was a lil oddly giving a lot of airtime to the use of bleach. Cut a long story short, it's a fascinating podcast if you get hold of it BUT he stated that bleach used by itself is not great at killing things.....it's so-so but will often just 'bleach' them of their colour making it appear that they're gone, when they're really not. He remarks how householders use it to clean mould in the shower and wonder why it comes back so quickly! He does detail how if you raise the pH of the bleach solution by adding an equal amount of white vinegar it then becomes VERY effective. Now before people flame me for stating to use a bleach solution with vinegar please READ what I'm stating: - mix the bleach with water in the normal ratio's you'd use - Then and only THEN mix the same amount of normal white vinegar into the bleach+water solution.....DO NOT mix the bleach DIRECTLY with the vinegar - this is dangerous! I can vouch for this making bleach much, much more effective - it absolutely cleans mould etc off much more powerfully. Anyway please DYOR but simply using bleach alone I fear might look to give good results but really leave spores etc behind. :-)
  15. @Petermur & AnzacPaul, It's funny you both said that for as a 1st timer I was loathe to open the fermenter until the full 2 weeks were up. Thus that was another reason using the very late hop tea addition appealed - as you can add at bulk priming it simplifies things greatly. :-)
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