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  1. You can inflate tyres with CO2. Plenty of adaptors around and take up less space than a pump on your ride. Mainly used for emergency situation/mid ride repairs. Also for the beer - see this mini regulator. They work and have seen them in action on 6l keg and 9.5l keg.
  2. They can inflate a bike tyre to 100psi, so pushing liquid at 12psi is not an issue. Might need 2 cartridges to empty the 9.5l keg though. Have seen them used on 6l kegs with no probs.
  3. There's Otto's method. Or I used to tie some cooking twine to it, then other end onto the handle to stop the twine falling in.
  4. This is your 1st indication. Shouldn't notice the cylinder pressure dropping over this time frame. Only time you may notice a drop in pressure is if you put a warm/room temp gas bottle into the fridge whilst it chills down. Carbonation is usually around 2 to 2.4 volumes or 40l in a corny so a drop in the cylinder pressure of this amount shouldn't be noticed. You will need to recheck everything and I suggest doing it one thing at a time. Start with regulator and open the gas bottle full with the reg closed to check this connection. Then add the hose and manifold (if using one), then the gas disconnect, then the keg. I lost a 3/4 full 2.6kg bottle due to a leaky disconnect - was easier to check for as had used the system a few times so knew it was good to the manifold.
  5. Haven't used it for kits, but just did a search of the fermentables and all the coopers tins are in there. So could be used. It is free to start with so can give it a whirl and see if it works for you or the spreadsheet is better. I used ianh spreadsheet when I started out doing kits. The license is $20US but got mine with a 30% discount when trying it out so came to around $20AUS for the year.
  6. Not to diminish beersmith ( i have version 2 and is quite good) but look at Brewfather - free to start with and is web based so available on all platforms with the one account. Also just released apple app.
  7. No problem raising the temp now. Can usually start doing it when it hits 1020 or less. Get it up to 18/20C for 3 to 4 days and check fully fermented, then cold crash/lager
  8. Or could try one of these holders and for those that can Beer is better out of glasses so could get a travel mug (keeps it colder as well) and increase the holes in the top so it doesn't foam and you get the aroma when drinking.
  9. Why condition upside down? This would put all the yeast at the opening. Fine if you are doing a coopers pale or sparkling where you want the yeast through it, but not for other styles where you want it to drop out and not go into the glass. I like your idea of trying all the different methods though to find out what works for you.
  10. Tribe is backed by a private equity firm amongst others and they have bought Stockade and Mornington Peninsula Breweries with the head brewers/previous owner staying on (pretty sure I read that about Mornington), hence the ability to make a decent beer.
  11. 30 mins in the freezer gets the first drinkable and the second one near spot on.
  12. Nothing wrong with taking sample too often but never tip the sample back in. Drink it or toss it. Don't open the top of fv unless for a dry hop. Also spray the tap with starsan or similar after sampling. Minimises chances of contamination.
  13. Would say that is the external measurements and not the fluid capacity. Also cutting in and out is not good. Two causes - one is flour from the mash on the element which can be solved with a scrub after mashing or during boil. Other is insufficient equipment which will need the additional element or partial cover of the vessel (lid half off).
  14. Southern Bay Brewing (Victoria) usually seasonally release a vanilla oatmeal stout which is very good.
  15. Another method I found on the net and it worked is to connect the gas to the beer out post and set to serving pressure (e.g. 12psi). Then pull the PRV every so often. Got it back to proper carbonation within a day or so.
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