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  1. Otto,it's been a week since i rinsed my drinking glasses in Boost and the results are amazing; every brew i poured was perfect so how about that! the bloody glasses had some sort of germ??
  2. Otto, my F.G.'s are in the range of between 1010 and 1015. I have just soaked my drinking glass in Boost for a couple hours and rinsed it out well and poured a brew into it and it poured a lot better so maybe after all it is something in the glass.I did this because another member posted his experience to my problem so i thought i should try and eliminate all possibilities.I'll do some more tests and get back to you on this.If that is all it is i may have to raise the amount of priming sugar again?....Gary.
  3. Otto, i was thinking maybe i'll put a little sugar in the next brew say a cup or two and see if that changes the balance of things?i use zero sugar at the moment,hey i'll try anything!!! Gary.
  4. Otto, i spray my bottles with Starsan and let dry before bottling,also the crown seals,this "nucleation"that you talk about,can it be prevented?
  5. Thanks Otto,i drink the beer from the fridge whatever temp that is,and no there was no typo error i prime with 1/2 gram (.5g) table sugar!! the glasses i drink from are tallish with a slight stem.I've tried different style glasses but still foams when pouring?What is "nucleation" mate?I'm going to leave the brew for 15 days (an extra 5 days) just to see if things change.I can only put less priming sugar in the bottles because i'm buggered as to what else to do!! The beer is the best i've ever made though thanks to all your good advice and if i could just get them to pour well then job done !!
  6. Hi all, i'm still having trouble with pour-ability with my beers; i've done all the sterilization steps to eliminate an infection being the cause and now putting less and less priming sugar in bottle and still getting too much head when i pour into glass,it's pissing me off! this is a standard brew: concentrate can 1KG light malt powder 300g steeped grain hops x15g at intervals coopers yeast from can+Mangrove Jacks M10 OG generally 1040,always make sure i get 2 FG readings the same before bottling i brew in fridge with external controller set @20c for 10 days i fill sanitized bottles (375ml) and add .5g table sugar,give a shake and store. That's about it,am i missing something?All i can think of is to put less and less priming sugar in!!
  7. I'm now cooling my wort by adding ice to the fv then pouring the hot wort in,that way the brew cools instantly so i can take sg and add yeast all very quickly. Can i ask is this ok to do?
  8. does anybody get the news letter? i'm told Coopers send them about every 2 weeks,i'm yet to receive one! i checked my profile and am set to receive them but not one has come?i look in spam to check but no? i was wanting to know when Coopers have free shipping from time to time.
  9. just found this brewing supplies site https://homebru.com.au/index.php/ it's in West Australia.Looks like i'll be spending some money there.
  10. Yeah Lusty,what i did was connect another tap to the FV tap and do what you say,turn the tap on/off. I'm gonna take the valve off the wand now too,it shouldn't bubble too much if the tube is right down to the bottom of bottle,this extra tap is really easy to turn on and off and it will save the FV tap from wear.
  11. Anthony,just another quickie,when i start using the better quality concentrate cans could i also use the supplied yeast along with the M10 ? Also is the Coopers club price for concentrate competitive ? i'm looking at the "selection" series @ $14.85. I'm out in the country and if that price is ok then i will order quite a few.I just rang Coopers and was told they have shipping free specials so that would be good for me....Gary.
  12. The Mangrove Jacks M10 that you suggested Anthony might be the "all-rounder" i need,someone said,it might have been you that " a good yeast will give a good taste" this was when i was using just the Coopers supplied yeast.I think i've come along a little from then!Yeah mate i'll try that one then,not too much can go wrong when using quality ingredients.
  13. Hi all,i've been using just the coopers cans from Woollies and now will spend a little extra for Coopers craft series and international cans and also try European cans too,i was wondering what one yeast would suit all? At the moment i'm using two: Mangrove Jacks craft series M27 (Belgian ale) and Saffbrew S33.My LHBS is 200ks away and i bulk order i thought sticking to one all-round yeast would be simpler.This shop doesn't stock all that i need so i have to order so they can get it from Perth when they go.Same with the hops i suppose,i mainly use Hallertau but like to mix in others.I'm not a scientist like some here on the forum,i just use the same ingredients but change concentrate cans to get a different taste,i know boring right! Any suggestions would be wonderful to hear and learn from especially you Chemist/Scientists (just kidding ofcourse) I use specialty grains,hops,light malt powder(no sugar) with all my brews so not SO boring.Just thought i would ask....Gary.
  14. thanks Anthony i'll keep trying,i like well made tools etc.
  15. does anyone know if i can buy a better quality stubby filler?this one leaks all the time i'm bottling.
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