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  1. send me a bottle for a sample taste and I'll give you my opinion on how much it's worth... ;)
  2. I think a problem may also be the formulae given by Coopers to calculate the alcohol content. I don't think it's spot on and it gives you lower alc %'s than what your beer really is. I found my coopers sparkling ale made exact to the recipie on the tin only calculated 5% alcohol. But we all know for sure that it's over 5%.
  3. Lol.. Poor Kai, ask for a dollar, get punched in the gut.
  4. I got my $5 refund last week. cheers :)
  5. In my opinion, I would say it's definetly the fact that it's too cold in the fridge. I've had the same thing happen to me. Keep in mind you have to keep the same temperature in secondary fermentation as you do in the primary (21 - 28 degrees) for at least one week after bottling. Then you can keep at room temperature after that. (I'm not sure what coopers consider as "room temperature") I think it's best if you can keep the beer at around 21 degrees when conditioning it in bottles. As for your beer. It should get better now you've got it warmer. All that happenes is the yeast gets lazy when it's too cold, so when you warm it up, it'll wake up and start working again.
  6. I've got a $5 cheque that coopers is supposed to be sending me, for when I bought an international series homebrew tin about 2 or 3 months ago. If you're having computer system troubles then that's OK... I can wait patiently.
  7. perhaps they ran out of the usual homebrew caps, and had many deliveries to make, so just sent out those cool ones instead. or maybe someone at the factory messed up....?
  8. many brewers sanitise successfully just by using boiling water only.
  9. I once used icing sugar.. and it primed the bottle just the same as white sugar and carbonation drops. the only difference was that the icing sugar made the beer froth up alot when bottling.
  10. Doc, I'm not sure about this (someone correct me if I'm wrong) , but I think it's fairly easy to get an ABN. And then all you'd need is to get a license to sell alcohol. The only thing is that I dunno what the requirements are to get an alcohol license. but if it's as easy as getting an ABN... then robert's your mother's brother.
  11. I've also heard of people putting their bottles in the oven after rinsing. The heat will kill any bacteria and it also dries the bottles out. use this method at own risk. ovens are hot, and hot glass can burn. I've also heard that the high temperatures can weaken the bottles. But I don't see why it should matter if you set the oven to 100 degrees... because that's how hot the boiling water most people use is.
  12. This is true. It also means that there is a good seal with the fermenter lid. The difference in pressure can only exist with a good seal. Condensation is actually a sign of active fermentation. And I don't see how it could have been bottled yet...? If you don't have a proper seal then the airlock levels can't be uneven. If there has been no fermentation then check to make sure the temperature is between 21-27 degrees celcius. It should still ferment between 18-30 degrees. the yeast would only be dead if it is well past its use by date, or it was exposed to temperatures higher than 30 degrees. if you've followed the coopers instructions properly then you will get a great beer. :)
  13. if the water levels in the airlock are uneven, then that is good. everything sounds like its going to plan perfectly. :)
  14. don't you mean mount the airlock under the fermenter? so the water doesn't splash back down into the fermenter..? This is actually a good idea! with a modified airlock you'll brew no worries... just make sure temeperature is all fine and dandy. the only other worry is bottling time... if you bottle after the vans been moving the fermenter around then the slurry will be disturbed and will get into your bottles.
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