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#20

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  1. Thanks Christina and Otto Otto - Just had a look at the spreadsheet and the attenuation is set to 80% (not 75). At least my version. My result is 92%ish. Have brewed this two times before too, a while ago. Both times with US-05, and both times with Coopers LME. According to my log they finished at 1.008 and 1.009. Both were very nice. A bit lower this time, with the Briess DME and the Nottingham. Well, the proof is in the pudding, they say....or rather in the glass. We'll see how it turns out in a couple of weeks.
  2. Hi guys, I put down a version/batch of Neill's Centennarillo Ale a couple of weeks ago. Bottled it yesterday. The fermentables in it are: 2,5 kg Light Dry Malt (Briess) 0,5 kg of Dextrose 23 liter I used 11g Nottingham rehydrated and had a very quick and nice fermentation. But it finished very low. I measured a FG of about 1.004 when bottling. I know the dextrose dries it out and lowers the FG, but this was a bit lower than I figured it would be. I have Ian's spreadsheet and it estimated a FG of about 1.008 here. Is it normal for Nottingham to attenuate this much?
  3. Hi guys, 3 kg Light Dry Malt 500g Dextrose 300g CaraRed 40g Chinook @ 30 min 20g Citra @ 20 min 30g Cascade @ 20 min 20g Citra @ 10 min 30g Cascade @ 10 min 20g Citra @ DH 30g Cascade @ DH 23 litres OG = 1.059 IBU = 58.4 (ffrom Ian's spreadsheet - doing a 8 litre boil) What do you guys think of this one? Any obvious tweaks or changes I should or could do here? What about the 2/3 Citra vs Cascade ratio? (I have heard Citra could be a bit overpowering) Or would these go best in a 50/50 pairing?
  4. Thanks for the input Headmaster So I guess one may pay a bit more attention with a regular system, and maybe give it a stir or two to avoid a stuck mash. While you don't have to think about that on the Braumeister. It's more a set and forget system. But one thing/"flaw" with the Braumeister as I understand, is that you can't mash (can't fit) really big grain bills anyway. Re HSA (hot-side aeration) on the Braumeister during the mash. From what I understand any oxidation during mashing will be boiled off. So not really a problem I did some googling. Found (among others) this thread on the Braumeister forum, where they discuss this. They mention a podcast on the brewing network, where Dr. Bamforth talks about HSA. Haven't had a chance to listen to this myself yet. But one of the guys in the discussion writes this - quote: "Interesting to note that he says that HSA in the mash may be a benefit if those compounds are driven off in a vigorous boil, or that the yeast can clean up staling compounds during the ferment, as you say Nesto it's possibly a net benefit! One brewery even bubbling air through hot wort to purge off volatile compounds. So maybe those clever BM designers know a thing or two about HSA and the benefits it can bring for beer stability and designed the BM to deliberately aerate the wort so staling compounds would be driven off during the boil." So to me, this doesn't seem to be anything to worry about on the Braumeister. If it was a problem, I guess this would be a problem on a lot of systems, on BIAB etc. As there is quite a bit of aeriation during sparging, circulation etc.
  5. Thanks SRN and Morrie for excellent answers to my question. I have also seen the comparison between the Grainfather and the Braumeister, that Time4Another1 did on youtube.
  6. Thanks, Waylon. Yeah, I know the Speidel is a real quality system. But my question was more on why it is designed the way it is, since every other system seems to be designed differently.
  7. Hi guys, I am planning to buy a single vessel AG system. As I understand, the Speidel Braumeister circulates during the mash by using the pumps to push the wort from the bottom and up through the grains inside the malt pipe, before the wort flows over the top of the malt pipe and down on the outside before it is pumped up on the inside again. All other systems, as far as I know....like the Grainfather and all DIY systems I have seen, uses the exact opposite direction of circulation. Taking wort from the bottom, pumping it out and up and sprinkling it on top of the wort, and then gravitation does its job on the rest of it. The Speidel Braumeister is considered by many to be the elite single vessel all grain brewing system for home brewers. And it is very expensive....compared to The Grainfather, which is one of the best alternatives. My question is: Why does Speidel circulate in a way that is the opposite of most (all?) other systems? I guess they have a good reason for it. But I don't understand what it is - and is the way they do it better than the traditional way? Any ideas?
  8. Thanks for the advice, Christina. Your suggestions are food for thought. And yeah, not gonna try the Choc Liqueur one. CaffeinatedSentryGnome: Yeah, it sounds nice. I might try that one. In general - there are a lot more recipes with the OS Stout kit than the Irish Stout. How much of a difference is there between those kits? Can I just use the Irish Stout in a recipe that calls for an OS Stout kit? Or is there too much of a difference? Could I make up for that difference by adding some specialty grains maybe? What is the difference between those two anyway?
  9. Hi, My LHBS had a sale on the Thomas Coopers Irish Stout kit. I bought 3. There are 3 recipes in the recipes section here where this kit is used. For the simplicity I might brew one Irish Stout recipe. I have done it once before, over 2 years ago and from what I remember it was quite nice for the little effort necessary. I might try the English Stout recipe. I think I will pass on The ChocLiqueur Stout. Do you guys have any other suggestions and recipes where these kits could be the base for a nice one? I don't mind steeping some grains by the way. Cheers, #20
  10. Thanks for the input Kelsey, Headmaster and Waylon As for the yeast, I will go with Nottingham at low temps this time around. As Kelsey says, it's a bit "easier". And I already have it in the fridge. As for the hopping, I'm convinced. I’m gonna go all Saaz but restrict it to the 200g I have at hand. I need to play around a bit with the hop schedule, based on your advice guys. Maybe I’ll try a FWH as well….hmm. Kelsey – You dial me in on Bohemian Pilsner. Looking at Bohemian Pilsner in Ian’s Spreadsheet, I see that FG is recommended to be from 1.013(low) to 1.017(high). That is higher than I originally planned for this beer. I imagine my recipe above will end up around 1.010, with the Nottingham. But on the other hand, you say my malt side of things look fine. What I started to think about now is - should I add some crystal malts in there to sweeten it up just a bit (and with the added benefit of better head retention and body)? I have Carared in my inventory. Or am I better off sticking to my first plan of no crystal malts and thus a lower FG? It's not gonna be exactly on style anyhow, with the Nottingham yeast. I just want to make a damn tasty beer with Saaz....spring coming soon and all, up here in Norway What do you guys think? Add some Carared (around 300g?) or not?
  11. Thanks, Lusty Thanks for the tip on that Bohemian Pilsner thread. I'm gonna read that one for sure, but it's a biggie , so I'm gonna take that one tomorrow . 2 AM here Why do you advice on dropping the Magnum and use Saaz for bittering instead? I thought there is little to no flavor/aroma from a 60 min bittering boil? So why not go with the high AA Magnum? But if going all Saaz, with one bittering addition and one flavor/aroma addition, I could maybe do like this? 125g Saaz 2.9% @60 mins (25.41 IBU) 75g Saaz 2.9% @15 mins (7.56 IBU) Total IBU = 32.9 Would you btw advice pitching 2 packs (22g) of Nottingham rehydrated for this one? When going at the lowest recommended temp range?
  12. Hi guys, I brew extract. On my last pale ales, I have used Magnum for bittering, and used a hop schedule of @20 min, @7 mins and DH with good success for flavor/aroma. Did one with a total of 100g Citra for flavor/aroma on my last one, that was very nice. This time I want to try something new. I have never used Saaz before in my brews. Have 200 grams of it. Never used Pilsen Malt either. Have 3 kg Briess Pilsen LME, and Briess Pilsen DME. What I have in mind is trying to make an easy drinking "pilsner" like ale/bastard with Pilsen malt and Nottingham as yeast, and a pleasing Saaz flavor/aroma. I have played a little bit with Ian's spreadsheet, and think maybe a german pilsner style beer would be a good reference point. What I really have no clue about is flavoring/aroma with the Saaz. How much to use?? How much punch is in it? Since it is a noble hop, I imagine the flavor/aroma is more subtle/"weak" than the hops I am used to (?) So following these thoughts, I made a recipe to get some feedback on, just to get started tweaking something here. So: 3.0 kg Briess Pilsen Light LME 0.6 kg Briess Pilsen Light DME 25g Magnum 13.1% @45 min 60g Saaz 2.9% @25 min 60g Saaz 2.9% @15 min 40g Saaz 2.9% @5 min (then steeped for another 5 mins after boil, before cooling) 23 litres Nottingham OG = 1.050 FG = 1.010 IBU = 37.2 What do you think? Too much Saaz, too little Saaz, not optimale hop schedule? Is the pilsen malt and ale yeast combo a weak combo? Where should I consider adjusting? I haven't put in any dry hopping, as I have read about mixed results dry hopping with saaz. If there is something obvious missing, I have a few more ingredients laying around and I have easy access to a LHBS.
  13. Lots of interesting stuff here, guys . Thanks for the response on my questions about FWH-ing.
  14. Thanks, Lusty. Yeah. I guess you are right about that. It's a way too simplistic approx to just use that chart, I guess. But I just wanted to have kind of a reference point to build my recipes around. And I figured this was a nice starting point. First wort hopping is something I have never tried. Is this any good when doing extract with smaller boils (5-7 litres) and then topping up with water? How do you calculate bitterness from first wort hopping in Ian's Spreadsheet? Looking forward to you post about hops, when you get the time for it Lusty :-)
  15. Hi wealsy22 For your next time, have a look here for detailed instuctions on rehydrating Nottingham (look at the Product Technical Data Sheet at the bottom).....and buy a thermometer
  16. In need of a reference point/guideline when designing extract recipes, I have used this chart lately for my 2-3 latest brews. I have used Magnum @45 min to 60 mins for bittering and then the flavor/aroma hop(s) @20 mins, @7 mins and dry hop. One of them was a Citra pale ale (citra @20, 7 and dh). Absolutely delicious when young, but the aroma seems to fade away pretty fast on it after some weeks in the bottle. Anyone else having this experience? It may be the characteristics of the Citra this... I figured the 20,7,dh would be a nice hop schedule based on the information in this chart (max flavor at 20, max aroma at 7). But it's open for tweaking....
  17. Hi guys, Taken from the Danstar site: "The recommended fermentation temperature range of this strain is 14° to 21°C (57° to 70°F) with good tolerance to low fermentation temperatures (12°C/54°F) that allow this strain to be used in lager-style beer." Question: If I wanted to ferment a 1.050ish beer with Nottingham on the low side, let's say 12-14°C, should I consider using 2 x 11 grams sachets instead of the normal 1 x 11g I would use when fermenting more in the normal ale temp range (18-20C)? Or would this be a massive overpitch? Should we only consider the OG when calculating the amount of ale yeast we pitch (as long as it is inside the tolerated temp range), or should we also consider the temp we ferment at? Haven't really thought much about this before, but now I do....
  18. Ok, thanks Tsubodai. A short update on this one. Took a new gravity reading and it's down to 1.015, and still fermenting. AND even better - the rotten egg smell in the room is now gone. Gonna be interesting to see where it stops.
  19. Hi again' date=' Christina It’s not a cider I have used, it’s an apple juice. And it’s not pure fresh pressed. Far from it, I would guess [img']cool[/img]. It’s packed in one of those 1,5 litre beverage cartons and the best before date is November 2016. God knows when they were packaged.... But what I meant was that it does not have any added vitamine C or anything. Reading on the packaging, it says on the ingredients that it is 100% apple juice. Pazteurized and aseptic packaged. And it says it’s made from concentrate. Forgot to mention that. It is pretty much one of the cheaper ones that is 100% juice, I guess. (And it was on sale as well.) It's not one of those high quality fresh pressed products. Those are much more expensive here in Norway as well. Wanted to try with a cheap one the first time around. Actually I think I have read someone say that cheap apple juice can make excellent cider, and that you don't have to use the most expensive juice.
  20. Hi again' date=' Christina It’s not a cider I have used, it’s an apple juice. And it’s not pure fresh pressed. Far from it, I would guess [img']cool[/img]. It’s packed in one of those 1,5 litre beverage cartons and the the best before date is November 2016. God knows when they were packaged.... But what I meant was that it does not have any added vitamine C or anything. Reading on the packaging, it says on the ingredients that it is 100% apple juice. Pazteurized and aseptic packaged. And it says it’s made from concentrate. Forgot to mention that. It is pretty much one of the cheapest ones that is 100% juice, I guess. Absolutely not one of those high quality fresh pressed products. Those are much more expensive here in Norway as well. Wanted to try with a cheap one the first time around. Actually I think I have read someone say that cheap apple juice can make excellent cider, and that you don't have to use the most expensive juice.
  21. Ok, thanks Tsubodai I don't have a spare FV, so can't do that pouring from one container to another, as Jack Keller advices. From your experience and trial and error, what would you do in my situation? Did the cider end up ok in the end, when you experienced this smell?
  22. Thanks for the input/thoughts, Christina I took a new gravity reading just to see that my "workers" are still doing their job. Down another 0.003 the last 12 hours, 1.024 now. Since it seems to be fermenting ok, I am tempted to just leave it alone. We are only at day 4 after all, and the temperature is on the low side (I did this intentionally - could crank it up a bit later on though, if it slows down). Not sure what kind of FG I should expect. Somewhere around 1.005 maybe? (since I use Notthingham - a cider yeast would finish around 1.000 I guess). As you say, I have also read that Nottingham makes great cider. Hopefully not finishing quite as dry as a pure cider yeast would. The juice is 100% pazteurized apple juice. Nothing added. No vitamine C, no added sugar or anything. I used a normal low cost apple juice from the store here in Norway. I both keg and bottle my beers. For the apple cider, I intend to keg it. Rhino farts is what it's called from what I have read . And I understand that it is pretty normal when brewing lagers, as you say. And for lagers, this smell goes away with a bit of lagering. So maybe my best course of action now would be to leave it alone. (I guess the nutrient should have been added a bit earlier anyway? And I don't have any at hand either....could buy though) Then keg it, maybe purge it a few times the first couple of days. Maybe the co2 will force any remaining sulphur smell out. And just lager it a few weeks in the keg. I have tried to google it a bit, and I see several people saying that the smell will dissappear and that it's nothing to worry too much about. But I'm not used to this from brewing ales, so my gut reaction is to worry....
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