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  1. Don’t get me wrong I’m still a big Coopers and there monthly free delivery is a real bonus. I’ve gone down the Coopers Brewart - Beerdroid path. Excellent units that will ferment any form of wort
  2. Sorry to say but it’s going backwards. Coopers tins for example are cheaper at Dan Murphy’s $15.99 for International Range, Coopers Member $16.20.
  3. As I understand it (and happy to be corrected) Coopers home Brew and BrewArt are in the same warehouse in QLD. Just wondering why home brew kit ingredients can not be sent with Brewprints or associated ingredients. Would be customer convenient, save on costs and make the free delivery offers more flexible. Just asking, Thanks
  4. Most of the active members of AHB have gone over to a newly formed forum site ACB (Australian Craft Brewing). They welcome kit and kilo brewers with open arms, have a high regard for Coopers and enjoy good banter. Plenty of good information.
  5. Goods recieved GRACULUS and thanks again. Will be used in the continuous pursuit of excellent beer.
  6. Thanks again, know about Australia Post, many issues with them.
  7. The normal golden sachets or even the Thomas Cooper ones. Thanks
  8. Coopers kits provide 7gm yeast sachets and I’d like to double that. You can buy Coopers 15gm sachets in USA for $2.99 however postage on a small parcel of 20 sachets will cost $57.80 to SA. Rediculous. Why can’t we buy them here? They (USA) must be getting them from here. Package same as our 7gm ones but state 15gms. In USA it would normally be ounces so further support they are coming from here. And no I don’t want to go down reharvesting, doing yeast starters etc, a 15gm pack would be fine!
  9. Good move to glass. I have delicious stouts and dark ales in glass 750ml bottles that are over 5yrs old. You can’t do that with PET bottles. Two things though, 1) use strong bottles like the Coopers long necks or if in SA, Pickaxe bottles have an awesome reputation. 2) ensure fermention is complete, most bottle bombs are caused by bottling before this.
  10. Hi Sam. It's fermenting alright and in general lager' s tend to be slow and appear not overly active. You are fermenting a bit high for at 21 degrees and lager should be a lot lower. Would suggest 16 degrees if your fridge can be set for this.
  11. I note the fermentation did take off but fg of 1032 is too high to bottle. Have you checked that your hydrometer is reading correctly, could you be reading it wrongly? In the fermenter for 9 days isn't that long, I leave mine for 14. Your brew could still be slowly fermenting. If reading still at 1032 on day 10 then give brew a bit of a " swirl" to try and get the yeast going again. What temp. is fermenter at?
  12. I would think the vibrations would stop the trub from settling and you'd have a cloudy brew. However a good vibrating machine is good for yeast preparation on brew day, place towel on top, jar or bowl with yeast and water and away it goes.
  13. Agree with those that don't rack to secondary. Unless absolutely necessary it is really only extra work and increases the risk of an infection. I mostly run two fermenters a week apart. Ferment each for 14 days then keg and or bottle. By the time they are placed in the fridge, chilled and then ready to drink the yeast has cleared up most issues, trub has settled, brew matured and thus delicious.
  14. Credit where credit is due. Fastest delivery from QLD to Adelaide yet. Placed order Wednesday morning and advised Aust. Post notified at 1pm. Order delivered today (sat) at 10.30 am from Lonsdale depot SA. Well done Coopers and for once Australia Post. Cheers
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