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kierank

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Everything posted by kierank

  1. kierank

    Digiboil

    Hi guys, it's been a long long time since I've been on this forum. My question is has anyone used the 65lt Digiboil units for BIAB? I am thinking of buying one and moving away from my old brew keg and gas burner, simply for better temp control. Has anyone used one this size plugged into a normal 10amp power point with all 3 elements working? Also if you are only using the 2 elements, how long does it take to get from mash temp to boil. Cheers Kieran
  2. This topic has probably been covered numerous times before but I'll ask again anyway. Has anyone had any success harvesting and reusing dry yeast? If so how do you wash it and how long can you store it in the fridge. I am not doing it to save money, I just hate the thoughts of throwing out what could be a perfectly healthy yeast. I have had some great results and some reasonable results before. I do all grain brews so it's a lot of effort wasted if you stuff up the yeast. I know people will say why bother for a $5 dry yeast but I enjoy trying something different. Cheers Kieran
  3. This topic has probably been covered numerous times before but I'll ask again anyway. Has anyone had any success harvesting and reusing dry yeast? If so how do you wash it and how long can you store it in the fridge. I am not doing it to save money, I just hate the thoughts of throwing out what could be a perfectly healthy yeast. I have had some great results and some reasonable results before. I do all grain brews so it's a lot of effort wasted if you stuff up the yeast. I know people will say why bother for a $5 dry yeast but I enjoy trying something different. Cheers Kieran
  4. Hi all, I have a couple of 9lt kegs and am unsure which is the best method of gassing them up. do I gas them up the same as a 18lt keg? any suggestions ? Cheers
  5. sounds so simple I will have to give it a go. I might give my bottle experiment another go also. I'll follow your advise but instead of tipping the lot into a mason jar I might use my bottle and let it settle out for an hour or so so the trub can settle at the bottom and I can drain most of it away and then bottle it and store it. Am I making something so simple a little more difficult??? If you use the entire contents left over from your previous brew to start your next brew would you not be over pitching [ not that I fully understand what over pitching entails] Kieran
  6. If you try my bottle method don't forget to drill a 12mm hole in the base of the bottle fit an o ring similar to that your air lock fits in, and something to plug it off. when you want to drain what you have in the bottle remove the plug otherwise it will create a vacuum and nothing will come out. the beauty of this is that if your bottle starts to get a bit cruddy just get another bottle
  7. Thanks for the info Lusty. had a look at the link you suggested which was great. I suppose what I have made is a makeshift separatory funnel. As I have it stored in the fridge while it settles out I am wondering if the yeast is settling at the bottom with the trub on top of that and then the beer/ water. it definetely looks that way. I suppose I could bottle both layers seperatly and make a yeast starter from both and that should resolve the issue. kieran
  8. I have been trying yeast harvesting for awhile with mixed success. I have been rinsing what was left in the F,V. with cooled boiled water and pouring it into a sterilized glass jar an letting it settle overnight in the fridge. there is a clear line where the liquid settles on top but i find it hard to see where the yeast settles and the trub starts and trying to pour off what i consider to be the yeast without getting too much trub is another issue, so I came up with an idea. Pour what is in the F.V. into a soft drink bottle, turned upside down with a valve in the neck of the bottle. That way I can drain the trub away, then bottle my yeast and drain the liquid away off the top. I now have 3 very distinctive layers. my problem is the bottom layer is a nice creamy colour, the one above that is darker and then the liquid. This yeast was harvested from a pale ale. Everything I have read or seen states that the dark layer is on the bottom then the yeast then the liquid. I would hate to bottle the trub for my next brew and throw away the yeast. Any suggestions? Kieran
  9. before going to kegs and all grain brewing I used the kits all the time. made lots of good brews and some questionable. I believe now that temp. control helps heaps if you can manage it, and I have not been a fan of the carbonation drops, never seemed to gas the beer up enough. As for temp control I use an old working chest freezer, a heat belt and a temp. controller I bought from Keg King. no wiring needed, simple as to use and you are done.
  10. kierank

    help

    Thanks again guys for your input. Going to try a pale ale ale tomorrow and use the info you supplied. I think it will help a lot
  11. I brew as often as I can,but work holds me back. I also do all grain no chill and cube off my brew so I have some stock. I love my beer.and can honestly say I think I out do Blacksands. I would probably keg a brew every week
  12. kierank

    help

    OK I am now out of my depth completely, why does a change of 4 or 5 dge. make such a difference? I understand that that at certain temperatures alpha and beta enzimes are released to convert the starches in the grain to sugar, so what happens when mashing at the low end of the scale compared to the higher end. Just curious. Kieran
  13. kierank

    help

    Looks like a full bodied low alcohol brew for me. Thanks for the info. Will mash lower next time. While on the subject, what is an Ideal mash temp for lagers/ Pils. I use the brew in a bag method.
  14. kierank

    help

    yes it is an all grain brew, 60 min mash started at 73 deg C and finished at 70. Is this temp. too high. should I be aiming around 68 to 70 deg. The yeast I used was a 10 g pack and pitched in a 20 lt batch I turned the temp. up to 25 deg last night and checked it this morning still hovering around 1024. is there anything I can do to rescue this brew? If it doesn't move any further I'll end up with a stout less than 3% ABV
  15. kierank

    help

    I have asked about this issue before and it has raised it's ugly head again. I made up a brew a couple of months and had it stored in a cube. I decided to ferment it 6 days ago. S.G. started at 1046 and after 6 days fermenting at 20 deg. C , checked it last night and F.G is at 1026. I pitched a Craft Series U K dark ale yeast (dry) to start with. After checking it last night I gave it a stir and added a yeast that I had washed from a dark ale brew just to see if I could restart my brew. The only thing I can come up with is the yeast has been sitting on the shelf in the brew shop and has gotten too hot and most of it has died. Anybody had similar issues. Any suggestions? Kieran
  16. from what I know I believe polyclar is some kind of plastic and while it does a great job in clearing your beer it should be filtered out before consuming, after all we brew beers using all natural ingredients why finish it off using a plastic product. gelatine works well, o.k. you might lose a glass of beer to start with but you still end up with a clear beer
  17. I have read where brewers use the unwashed yeast and that it works well but I am washing it to eliminate some of the trub as I do an all grain brew and I probably have some hops left over in the trub. Washing it isn't a big issue just a bit more time consuming.
  18. I have completed a lager brew and used a 15g packet of Morgans European dry lager yeast. I have washed this yeast twice and it is now settling out. Once it is finished can I use this complete batch of yeast for my next brew or will it be too much? should I divide it up into two or three batches or will that not be enough yeast for a 20lt brew with a s.g of around 1050
  19. took your advise guys and raised the temp of the brew, rehydrated another yeast and the f.g. is already down to 1010. I am giving the yeast washing a go just out of curiosity and being a tight arse, See what turns out. Thanks again for the tips
  20. Hi Cristina, yes i only used one yeast and pitched it at fermentation temp which was probably a big ask for the yeast and probably explains why the other two brews worked out better. They have 15g of yeast while I think the saflager does not have as much. I think also I should pitch the yeast at a higher temp to start with and then ferment them at normal temp. thanks for the tips. will give the yeast starter a go as I have a stir plate and Erlynmeyer flask.
  21. I'll give that a go Kelsey, should I use the same type of yeast or try something different? I have 2 more lagers brewing at the moment and they have only been down 7 days and are close to 1010 already. I used a morgans Prem. lag. yeast on one and a morgans European lag. yeast on the other. they are all brewing at the same temp., around 13.5deg.C. Just wondering if the w34/70 yeast was past it's u.b.d.?by the way, has anyone tried washing and harvesting yeast or is it worth the bother?
  22. Hi Guys, I am having a bit of an issue with a lager I am brewing at the moment. I started with a s.g. of 1046 seventeen days ago and am still only at 1030. I am fermenting in a temp. controlled fridge at 13.5deg C plus or minus 1 deg. The yeast I used was a saflager w34/70 dry yeast. Do I add another yeast or just leave it alone. I have had lagers stall before at around 1020 but after another few days they finished off around the 1010 mark. Kieran.
  23. A long time ago before I started kegging my beer I would have around 400 long necks of beer stored in my workshop, which meant they were there for some time. Occasionally I would have one explode after being on the shelf for months. My theory is that even though my hydrometer said fermentation was finished, I suspect it hadn't and as the weather warmed up the last few bottles racked from the brew had some yeast in them and became active once warmed up. I then started racking my beer into secondary fermenters before bottling and found that final gravity had often dropped a bit lower. I didn't have any more bombs go off once I did that.
  24. As I do most of my beer in kegs I often end up with enough in my fermenter to fill a couple of bottles. I may not get around to drinking these bottles for months, up to 8 months. Anyway due to a shortage of kegged beer I called on my back up stock of long necks. Most of them were over gassed and a volcano of foam erupted when opened rendering the beer useless. I don't ever remember this happening when I used sugar to carbonate my brews. Has anybody experienced the same problem? I used 2 carbonation drops per long neck. I have found that short term they don't carbonate enough and long term they over carbonate so its back to sugar for me. By the way the bottles were stored at a relative stable temp. of 24 deg. C
  25. Always keep records of what I have done in case I fluke it. Going to have another crack at it on Tue. Going for a pilsner this time. Will let you know if I get the same result.
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