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Steve T

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  1. Thanks Paul for the time spent on the phone sorting out my problems and others who have written to help also. I was guilty of two of what I think are probably the most simple and usual mistakes made by new brewers. The first brews were fine I was testing and tasting the beer in brand new glasses bought specifically for my home brew, the problem being they were never clean and I was avoiding detergent when washing so they were always dirty I took Pauls advice and poured the beer into brand new plastic cups and the differance is unbeliveable Problem 1 solved. Problem 2 I had made up a yeast culture from Pale Ale stubbies for my next lot of brews and it somehow got an infection, unknown to me I then took yeast samples from the fermenter split it into 4 and thus infected the next 4 brews. Problem 2 solved I just wish I had noticed the slight infection when I bottled the first brew not 4 weeks later after I had patiently waited but brewed 4 more infected batches. Anyway my lesson has been learnt and i am back on track and will continue my quest to brew that perfect pale ale
  2. Thanks Paul I will ring you shortly Also thanks Simon I dont think the fermenter cleanliness is a problem as they are both brand new but I may be guilty of over sterilisation I am using coopers brand sterilizer but may not be rinsing enough giving me flat brews Steve
  3. Hi I have been trying to brew a pale ale to equal the bottled brew for about 3 months (10 brews) and i must say I am getting quite frustrated. The first 4 brews i followed all directions given, I used Brew Enh. 2 started with 1035 at about 28 degrees after 6 to 8 days finished at 1005 bottled using carb. drops and after 4 weeks waiting ended up with a flat dark malty beer really quite undrinkable after 2 or 3. I then decided to get my yeast from 4 pale ale stubbies I started at 1038 at 28 degees, 7 days later I bottled at 1005 using carb. drops waited 4 weeks and now have a beer that is really overcarbonated ??? I pour it in a glass and the head grows out of the glass It is also quite undrinkable too. To top it off I tried a corona brew followed all instuctions used the yeast supplied and ended up with again a very flat beer.?? I have tried bottling in cleaned stubbies reusing the twist tops and new PET bottles it doent seem to have any effect on the finished product. I have just put another Pale Ale brew down this time using yeast supplied plus yeast from pale ale stubbies hoping to get the right carbonation is this a good idea or should I use bulk priming and adjust the dextrose down in the hope of getting less carbonisation?? I have also started to cool the wort down to 24/26 degrees hoping it will give a better tasting brew.
  4. Thanks Paul i will take your advice and not stir the yeast in primary I am actually bottling back into pale ale stubbies and twisting the tops back on which seems to work. I do have some PET bottles so will also try the recultured yeast from Pale Ale as you suggested, it also give me a good excuse to buy another carton of Pale. thanks for your help Steve
  5. Hi all i am a new brewer and am currently on my 4th. Pale ale brew which is ready to bottle probably tommorow. I have nearly finished drinking my first which i was very happy with even though I failed to used the brew enhancer 2. I now have used it in every other brew and cant wait to taste the difference. When i bottle the brew using the sediment stays on the bottom of the tub and doesnt make it into the bottle then second fermantation takes place and at the end of this there is minimal sediment in each bottle which I am sure most would be happy with. My question is if I shook the brew in the tub slightly before I bottled would the sediment be divided between the bottles and would it leave me with more sediment in each bottle?? And of course does any one know how it would effect the flavour?? Steve (trying to duplicate Pale Ale as close as possible)
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