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    Aussiekraut

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/25/2021 in all areas

  1. Only got 4 bottles of this Czech Pils left, holy sh*t I can’t wait until the temperature drops so I can use dubbya again. 9 months in the bottle, a beaut Deffo do two or three batches as soon as I can
    5 points
  2. Dropped in at uncle Dan’s and saw this one. A gluten free pale ale from Twobays brewing. Made with millet, rice and buckwheat. It’s actually not a bad beer. Slightly different to what I’m used to in terms of maltiness but it’s quite nice. Even SWMBO thought it “isn’t bad for a beer”
    4 points
  3. 1.7 draught , 1kg DME and a whole bunch of S african hops. 2 week old. Cheers
    2 points
  4. Got a refill this afternoon ready for the GF. Classic WC IPA.
    2 points
  5. Yeah mate all the time for my Trappist recipes. Almost every one uses it. Blond and golden strong recipes tend to use dextrose or even straight sugar in some instances. Anyway candi sugar is so damn expensive so I did a fair bit of digging and all it really is is inverted sugar. You can make it yourself which I do as it's so much cheaper. Plenty of videos and instructions online. The only difference when I make it is I never take it to hard crack to keep it in liquid form as it's much easier to work with. The ratios for the colours I have found which are close are Clear candi - 100% white sugar. 5 mins inversion Light candi - 100% white sugar. 15 mins inversion Amber candi - 25% dark sugar 75% white sugar. 15 mins inversion Dark candi - 50% dark 50% white. 15 mins inversion When using the dark sugar use a bigger pot as it will froth up on you This is the dark sugar I use. Readily available at woolies or other supermarkets. https://www.woolworths.com.au/shop/productdetails/37736/csr-brown-sugar-dark
    2 points
  6. As long as this is well rinsed, it does not pose a problem. Look for the product that has the highest percentage of sodium perc as an active ingredient. You can get straight sodium perc or PBW from homebrew shops. This is the better option - but the supermarket stuff can do the job.
    2 points
  7. I've been looking at this for quite a while to clone some Belgian beers. Not tried yet but I will.
    2 points
  8. Candi sugar is bloody expensive when I have a go at a Belgian I think I will have a go at inverted sugar just for an experiment anyone else had a go?
    2 points
  9. Yeah you could make a starter out of 1 bottle even you would just have to step it up more. When I make a starter off coopers I usually do the same as you have suggested. Decant into the sanitised jar over a couple of days. Or as Shamus suggested just recap the bottle. You should have plenty of yeast in your 4 bottles but depending on age and the alcohol content of the saison it might not be that viable. I'd start with a smallish 400ml starter volume. Watch how quick she takes off. If its quick then you had a bit of viability there and can probably go from 400ml to 2L. If its slow you might have to go half way or so to 1L and then to the 2L to build up enough cells. Unfortunately without a microscope it's difficult to know how much you have in the first place.
    2 points
  10. I'm just spit-balling here, but if a six pack of Coopers is enough to harvest for one of their standard brews, you would think that four longnecks worth of your Saison dregs would be enough too. When I last harvested from Coopers bottles, I decanted and drank three one night. Recapped each screw-top bottle and put it back in the fridge. The next night did three more. On the third day I did the Coopers reactivation process. All went well. I imagine you could pour the dregs into a jar, but why not just leave them in the bottle for a day or two until you are ready to do the first step of your starter. I guess the right starter size depends on how much good yeast you start with. For me I would do a Coopers sized starter firstly to reactivate the yeast. So 600ml with 60 grams of LDM. This should give you 30 -50 ml of good yeast. Containing 45 - 75 billion yeast cells, at @Greeny1525229549's rule of thumb of 1.5 bil cells/ml. Then I would do a second step starter using 1 litre with 100 grams of LDM. Decant off as much of the 600ml of liquid from the first step as you can, leaving enough to swirl up the yeast to pitch into the 1 litre starter. That should give you somewhere around 200 billion cells, which should be good for about 20 litres of 1.050 OG wort. Follow my advice with caution. I am no expert, but I am good at using the Brewfather software. Let's see if you get any corroborating advice from others.
    2 points
  11. Howdy folks. Im pushing crud up hill to get the yeast I want for my next saison. Seems like WLP568 is sold out nation wide. However I’ve got enough bottles remaining from a previous batch to muster up a culture from bottle dregs…..would the yeasties from 4 bottles be sufficient? im also not planing on drinking 4 champagne bottles worth in one go, instead 1 per day for the next 4 days and tipping the dregs into a jar each night and fridging it. Until I need to kick off my starter……any problemos?? finally, for those that bottle harvest…what’s a good starter size to start with to get to a 2 litre starter?? thanks gang.
    1 point
  12. finally going to get to see that grand old high flying flag. go dees
    1 point
  13. Well again just the weather for a single malt too. Cheers.
    1 point
  14. yeah i was just about to say your hydrometer is broken or your water is not at 1.000
    1 point
  15. Don’t forget that bottle conditioning ads another 0.4-0.5%, so you will end up with a more “regular” ABV in the bottle. You can add fermentables to give it a little extra kick but I’d stay clear of sugar or dextrose if you want a decent beer. If you can, add a little DME to the brew for more body and better head formation and retention.
    1 point
  16. More likely your first og sample was not representative of the wort. Probably unmixed extract still floating around. I'd give the wort a really good stir and take another sample. I'm presuming you filled to the correct level in the fv (some mixes are 21 ltr, others 23) and you've calibrated your hydrometer.
    1 point
  17. Saturday Jokes This gives new meaning to ' Beer Garden '
    1 point
  18. Hahaha. I used to do that too. Drops in first. No/minimal fizz.
    1 point
  19. Nice @stquinto I love Czech Pilsner, I used to go out with a Czech lady & she didn't mind a drop either !! I have made it before with Saaz & W-34/70 & it always turns out very nice but I haven't tried it with Dubbya. Cheers.
    1 point
  20. $4.50 for 450gm isn’t $1 per kg It’s $10kg
    1 point
  21. Sorry, just got my PC running again - HDD problems - still not running right but got Windows working enough to check things. My usual is 250g sugar (or LDME) and about 1L water at somehwere between 25 & 30
    1 point
  22. Hi @mkinadl, did you throw an extra few kilos of dextrose in the brew you were drinking last night? You seem a bit lively
    1 point
  23. As a newbie, I've tried the drops for simplify things,but the results were very ccarbonated. Tried the "spoon" with different measures and it was excelent. I used dextrose for carbonation. It takes more time,but the results are much more than better. Just my 2 cents....
    1 point
  24. Sounds like you're looking or the difference between mash, mini mash, steeping, mesh bag/no mesh bag - & other terms that are confusing to me... 1.) 'Beef up your beer kits by adding some grains and hops with a method known as a "Mini Mash" ' - by CraigTube [WARNING - the B/W intro seems 'spooky']; 2.) 'Difference between Mashing and Steeping - Tips in under 5 minutes' - by The Home Brew Network (AKA 'Gash' AKA 'CELLAR DWELLERS'); 3.) another CraigTube 'Easy Home Brewing - All Grain on the Stove'; 4.) if you're in Aust & need an idea for stainless pots for 'Grain To Glass' without the budget for 'Grainfather/BrewZilla' then there's [could not find the specific vid by 'The Home Brew Network' so here is what his BigW {dead} links were pointing to originally]: EDIT; I'll add the direct links here since this aint a 9 yr old YouTube vid... 4a.) Stock Pot 7.6L $10AU [Sept2021] (* he wanted the 19L pot) www.bigw.com.au/product/brilliant-basics-stock-pot-7-6l-silver/p/63354/ 4b.) Stock Pot 19L $20AU [Sept2021] www.bigw.com.au/product/brilliant-basics-stock-pot-19l-silver/p/63355/
    1 point
  25. A Mosaic hopped XPA. I made an FWK of this nature a while ago and I quite liked it. This is my take on it. Legged 2 weeks ago, fast carbed I er night and ready for drinking today.
    1 point
  26. Lager - Münchener Helles ish style... in a well chilled ceramic mug for a change... 'Tis yum.... Or as some may say süffig.... slurpable is my best translation. Cheers All
    1 point
  27. OOP'S better slip down to the LHBS for some yeast after you have cleaned up of course !!
    1 point
  28. I was going to ask a serious question about harvesting a Wyeast Yorkshire yeast, as to how much was necessary, but I suspect I answered my own question … Christ, I’ve not seen that since I suggested replacing breast milk with curry on the first-born Not really enough to get a brew going, eh?
    1 point
  29. I've only bottle harvested Coopers commercial ale yeast from Coopers stubbies and I've done subsequent generations from my own PET longnecks. 3 longnecks is sufficient for that particular yeast. I usually swirl the sediment and condense into one bottle and put back in fridge if I'm not drinking in one go. That way my fridge isn't full of emptyish beer bottles. One thing to be mindful of: The Coopers yeast gives off a bread or fruit scent if it's healthy. I'm not sure what the scent would be for Saison to determine it's health.
    1 point
  30. That's what came with my starter kit from LHBS so its what I've been using. I never knew that's what they were called, i've been calling it a bottle sprayer. i'm very technical. OP, get one of these and a tree and bottling isn't painful at all.
    1 point
  31. Looks like you found the reason for you apparently high FG's. I think that refractometer readings are affected by alcohol in the finishing beer. There is a way to convert the readings to actual gravity, but I do not know it. I still sometimes use my refractometer as an indicator of when fermentation is finished. Just like a hydrometer, the readings will stabilise. The advantage is that you only need a very small sample. Once the refractometer reading is stable, take a hydrometer reading and this will be your actual FG.
    1 point
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