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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/06/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Small batch looking at 12l for fermenter. Started 3:30pm but shouldnt take long to do. Anglo Saxon IPA. Will post recipe later. Spur of the moment brew using up some grain dregs.
  2. 2 points
    I appreciate many of the more experienced brewers out there know their hops 'frack to bont' but for those of us still in the brewing nursery discovering a different hop with a great flavour is like finding out missionary position isn't the only one. I bought some Cluster because they were cheap but I read they were a suitable substitute for EKG hops which I'd used exclusively prior. Cheap and suitable works for me. Tonight I've popped the lid on my first pale ale using Cluster. Wow! I'm not good at describing flavours but it's bloody good. Now I'm beginning to understand why many of you use so many differing hops. I used to think, "These guys/gals are beer w*nkers! Hops is hops." Clearly they are not. The rabbit hole deepens.
  3. 2 points
    I can't take any credit for that. PB2 was the last bloke I can remember speaking about this on the forum (sorry if I missed any posts since). I still remember his post. He took the p|$$ out of himself for doing a 90min mash on a porter or stout recipe where clarity really doesn't matter as you can't see through the beer. LOL In lighter malted beers though to improve overall clarity, yes it is beneficial. I was lucky enough to be a member of the touring group at the Brewery for PB2's last official outing for Coopers (AFAIK). He was a terrific mentor to many over probably two or more decades of home brewers helping with all their brewing problems & questions, & was a driving force behind the development & success of the Coopers home brew kits & recipes that can be brewed with them. I hope he's enjoying his retirement. (Insert High Five) Cheers, Lusty.
  4. 2 points
    Spot on. And must i say a longer mash and boil if you want a clear beer. I think you put me onto that lusty when i couldnt get my asian lagers clear despite my best efforts. It certainly did the trick.
  5. 2 points
    I'm convinced. The next batch is going to bulk prime in the FV.
  6. 2 points
    I do CC some batches but not all. But yes, leaving it for an hour is fine. I stir in the primer, then put the FV on the bench and start sanitising bottles and preparing for bottling. That time is usually enough to get it all settled.
  7. 2 points
    Mate it smells great in here! Smells like driving past the brewery up here in Brisbane
  8. 2 points
    By rapid cycling the compressor. The Inkbird allows me to tell the fridge to do unhealthy things (for old hard rubbish fridges) like turn on and off every other minute when there is a +/- 1º variation at the probe. That is how I had the Inkbird set to keep my brew fermenting at 20º, then I told the Inkbird to drop the temperature to freezing and I went to work - that's when the overload has tripped. As you suggest I had the probe dangling at this point. I didn't see much point in taping it back to the side of the FV because I just wanted it to get as cold as possible in two days. If the temperature is fluctuating the Inkbird, under those settings could potentially be turning the compressor on and off every other minute each time the temperature was 1º off target. Rapid cycling would certainly generate heat which the overload circuit could interpret as impending failure and kick in to protect the compressor. That's my theory anyway. I don't know that it was rapid cycling though coz I was at work. At present all is well but I am only using the Inkbird as a thermometer. The fridge is plugged into the mains and has brought the temperature on the FV down from 14.3º to 6.2º in 16 hours. The good news is that if there is a issue with the start relay or the overload switch they are both cheap and easy to replace. A fridge mechanic I spoke to said he had repaired 'thousands of fridges' and he could count on one hand the number that had compressor failure. It's the relays that give up. The moral of the story me is that the PT (compressor protection) setting on the Inkbird should be set to 10 minute delay. 10 minutes is not going to make much difference to the temperature of the brew but is going to save stressing out the compressor. The Inkbird is working fine. The problem is likely to have been what I was telling it to do. Thanks all for your advice. In other news I stuck the Inkbird probe in my ear. Either I need to recalibrate or I have coronavirus.
  9. 2 points
    My thoughts exactly. Some people worry about trub disturbance, they worry about uneven priming, they even worry about fermentation starting before you fill the bottles. Some people worry too much! In all my brews I have never experienced any problems with this method. Perhaps it helps that I always let the brew sit undisturbed for 5-7 days after fermentation finishes. I imagine this helps with settlement and consolidation. I don’t cc by the way. With a long spoon,a steady hand and a bit of care there need not be any trub disturbance at all. None. Cheers.
  10. 1 point
    A can of extract and 1.5kg of fermentables will get you about 5.2% ish. The spreadsheet is a great tool. Many of the mainstream kits and additions are there ready to be plugged in, and you can get an accurate calc of your OG/FG and ABV. Then tweak the amounts of sugars to get where you want, before you start.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for the spreadsheet: I've downloaded a similar looking one from Otto. But it is way advanced for me just yet: I have to learn rocket science before I can read rocket science!
  12. 1 point
    Good thoughts and info- thank you. Well I was originally planning on bottling on Friday morning after the cool of the overnight. In an apartment, without a wine fridge (YET!), that is my version of 'cold crash'... So I have read that Lagers like nice an cold.... which is why I am totally surprised that the Coopers DIY kit comes with a Lager and recommends 21-29 degrees.... the same temperature of their whole range!!!? Anyway, for this year at least I will be brewing Ale Malt Cans, not lagers. I still have the following Coopers cans: Pale Ale, British Ale, two Dark Ales and Stout. I also bought a European Lager but just checked the instructions and that says brew at 13-15c: impossible for me now. Maybe in August I can wear my Scandinavian gear and save a power bill for 2 weeks!
  13. 1 point
    Ultrabrew for your fermentable seems to be equivalent to Coopers BE3. It looks like it's probably done. Crank the temp up 2C if you can. A couple more days won't hurt. It the reading doesn't shift, it's bottling time. Sometimes beers don't brew out to where expected.
  14. 1 point
    Talking Fish... fresh Tassie Salmon Fillets - bought not self caught - but came up very nice crumbed and a bit of olive oil on medium barbie... Got the really nice crispy crumb thing happening ; )
  15. 1 point
    Hey there Cobber. Great recording skills. I would bounce this to @Otto Von Blotto Kelsey - but - maybe if everything is clean and hygienic and ok - if you leave it a few days longer in the FV - it will not hurt - finish the ferment... Drop more sediment out.... condition a bit in the FV... if no likelihood of infection and no raging hurry to get the FV to another Brew - can be a good thing for it to condition for a few days. Bottle on the weekend and put a new brew on at the same time? I would recommend you stay away from Coopers and other Lagers unless you can brew at colder temps like 10-12 at least 15 and below.... and use good Lager Yeast like W34/70... It is so easy to make very very good Ales at 16-18-20 deg with ease... with Ale Yeasts... and they are quicker and less hassle. And good if you like Ales too... And if you want to make a jump forwards in tasty brews - try using a tin of Coopers "Ale" of some sort and then add a tin of Coopers liquid malt... e.g. Coopers Real Ale or Coopers Pale Ale... and ADD a tin of Coopers Light liquid malt... maybe also 0.5kg of Dex or 0.5kg of a Coopers BEnhancer... maybe a small late hop steep in a hop sock... and you'll be amazed. Just a thought as it took me a long time to work that out in days pre the DIY Website ha ha. Cheers and good brewing. BB
  16. 1 point
    Wednesday 6th May: 189 hours (7.88 days) since pitch. Brew Temp: 20.6C steady. SG: Not Tested. Will test tomorrow with a view of bottling if 1010/1011. Comments: The liquid in the FV looks nice and clear brown, the cloudiness does seem to have cleared somewhat. Will probably bottle after the SG and taste test tomorrow. Photo(s): Nil.
  17. 1 point
    If you want to get sugars out of it yes you have to do a cereal mash. Not difficult but will add 40 mins or so to brewday.
  18. 1 point
    So mate if you put little in - little will come out... here is a basic calc out of something called Ian's Spreadsheet that helped me earlier on... some more clever dudes can provide that to you... So if you use one Can and 500g of Malt - you get around 3%. The brew might not yet be finished either mate so maybe let it go for a bit longer - and next time use a bit more on the input side... am a big supporter of Liquid Malt for kit brewers...
  19. 1 point
    G'day IBB and Welcome Aboard the Good Ship BREWFEST. So did the Video say you were going to get 5%? What were your ingredients?
  20. 1 point
    Yep these are great and he uses a similar method.
  21. 1 point
    Me too. @Worts and all is my guru.
  22. 1 point
    It won't damage the compressor if the temp probe is taped to the fermenter and insulated from the ambient because the brew simply doesn't warm up anywhere near as quickly as the air does. You wouldn't set the difference that low with it dangling in the fridge though.
  23. 1 point
    And further to the discussion elsewhere, while cycling the the fridge with a 0.3 - 0.5º diff will cruel the compressor on your fridge the heat belt couldn't care less - no mechanical work involved.
  24. 1 point
    Sure can. Attach the temp sensor inside some insulating material as normal to the side of the FV. I set mine in the gap where your heat belt cord isn't directly warming the FV. Set your desired temp with a 0.3-0.5 deg differential and your in biz
  25. 1 point
    Your reasons for transferring are no doubt sound, and based on some evidence or other. Wanting to keep things simple (I may have mentioned that before) ‘I omit that stage.. Like others here,I stir the solution in carefully, then allow it to sit for 10-15 minutes. I fondly imagine that during this time the sugar is obediently dispersing itself throughout the brew. Does it actually do this? I don’t know. Doesn’t matter ,as my bottles are always evenly carbonated (Subject to my imperfect judgment of course). The waiting time is used to prepare bottles,lids,etc. If. I could be convinced that transferring would make better beer I would do it immediately. So far,I don’t see the evidence.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    As far as my understanding goes: Cluster was grown extensively in Tasmania from late 1800's. There are 2 varieties Cluster Australian and Cluster American. My guess is it is derived from an English hop and is closely linked to EKG as EKG was grown here too.
  28. 1 point
    I am trying to stay away from apps as such, just some software that I can run on the PC in the brew cave for my own use. Not interested in running from or storing stuff in the cloud. Don't need to wi-fi monitor stuff or want to watch whats happening in the brewery on my phone. There is too many apps spreading PIF POX as it is (phone in face pox). Everywhere you look someone has this disease. Have played with Beersmith demo in the past but the trial ran out before I could get to look at all of its bits and pieces. plus you need to use it while you brew so you can see if the software figures get close or you get close to them. Watched a recent YouTube video on a comparison of a few of the 1 V brewing systems and the GrainFather firmware and software/app got a bit of a toweling. The Beersmith demo does something to the hard drive so it cannot be re-installed again as a demo on the same system even if uninstalled. Have not found the registry keys or files to delete in order to re-install it as a demo yet, would like to have another play with it before committing to a purchase. I know it's not expensive in the scheme of things. Probably never use the full features of the software as OVB says, just be nice to be comfortable with it and what I choose to use. Cheers - AL
  29. 1 point
    Can't see BP or single priming making a difference to carb levels. I'm going to start doing it because I have a range of bottle sizes and it's getting too boring to do them individually. I've never been a fan of Carb drops. My experience with them was only the first few brews, but I found them underdone. This could be simply that HB beer is less carbed than a lot of commercial stuff (which I think it is) but I've had better results with sugar and a bottle scoop measure - which are supposed to be the same dose as drops. With BP, you can tweak carb levels to your own liking, and it'll be consistent across the batch.
  30. 1 point
    Freudian slip by @BlackSands
  31. 1 point
    I have done that on non-carbonated bottles before. You have to recap them really quickly because there will be some CO2 in the bottles and the sugar causes it to fizz up almost instantly. The bottles I did this on came out better than flat but not as good as those that carbonated properly the first time around.
  32. 1 point
    You want the next few days to be consistently warm - maybe 20 - 22° so the secondary ferment proceeds apace.
  33. 1 point
    I'd say more time will help carbonate it further. Not surprised that it's a boring beer though
  34. 1 point
    Don't change the line length because of one crappy beer. The high ABV and probably higher FG wouldn't be helping it absorb gas.
  35. 1 point
    No, as it's only chilling. I did work out where to set it with the inkbird in a keg of water when I first got the kegerator, so it just sits at that setting now. I'll probably always have kegerators while I have this bar set up because nothing else really fits in there.
  36. 1 point
    What you need to add to pure water depends on the beer you're making and what the malt bill is. There isn't one profile that suits everything. Different mineral profiles suit different beers. For example when I brew pilsners I add hardly anything to the water, less than half a gram of 3 different mineral salts. With pale ales I add more in different ratios. Other beers have different ratios again. The pH of the water makes hardly any difference to the pH of the mash. The grains themselves and the mineral profile are the main influences. Water with a reasonable amount of carbonate in it will resist pH change more, so it will stay higher. Use chalk and bicarb soda sparingly, if at all. Dark roasted grains are more acidic than lighter grains. You can also use acid malt or lactic acid to bring the pH down into optimal range. Speaking of which, don't be fixated on getting every mash to 5.2. It really only needs to be between 5.2 and 5.6. Generally paler styles are at the lower end and darker beers at the higher end, but I find anywhere in that range works well for most beers. With regards to flavour, a basic rule of thumb is that more sulphate than chloride in the water makes the hops pop more, however too much sulphate could make it too tart. Conversely, more chloride makes the malt dominate a bit more. This is one reason why there are different water profiles for different beers. Finally, I wouldn't bother trying to adjust tap water. The profile probably doesn't change a hell of a lot depending on location, but the figures are all averages and not necessarily recent. In Brisbane the water temporarily goes harder when there is a lot of rain in the dam catchments because they're full of limestone. Otherwise it stays pretty stable. It does contain about 90-100ppm carbonate though, which is too much for keeping the mash pH in the optimal range without adding a heap of acid. That's why I distill my brewing water and create my own profiles. Interestingly, there is one of my recipes where the tap water produces the best result and that's my red ale. I did play around with making some water profiles for it, but none of those batches was as good as the straight tap water. It also works well in my porters and stouts. Otherwise though, it's distilled water with minerals added back to suit the style being brewed.
  37. 1 point
    That's a bit like these: In a whispering voice: Just don't tell them what you might use the cup hooks for
  38. 1 point
    Cheers @MUZZY I regret not starting gardening when I was younger. I have always been interested but I didn't really take gardening seriously until 3 or 4 years ago. They say the best time to plant a tree was 10 years ago and the second best time is now. It's true. You can turn just about anything into a wicking container. Garbage bins, 20L buckets, polystyrene fruit boxes and bathtubs are all candidates. Old toilet bowls work too. The S bend services to maintain the water level as it acts like an overflow. Bathtubs are favorite because you don't need to make them water tight - they already are. And if you unscrew the waste pipe and reinstall it upside down ( so that it is inside the tub ) is the ideal overflow. You don't really need bother about a water reservoir. Just fill the tub with soil and water until it flows out the waste. Instant wicking bed. @Bearded Burbler Your doing all right for someone coming out of a drought. Enjoy !
  39. 1 point
    Ha ha ha yeah mate got like 8kg for about $4.5 sensational
  40. 1 point
    Yeah mate. Plenty of stuff to play around with there. Sorghum, millet, corn, unmalted barley. Saw hemp seed too.
  41. 1 point
    Strongly recommend the Inkbird 308 Temperature Controller. Around $50-60 on eBay. Sounds like expensive kit, but it works really well.
  42. 1 point
    Don't get me started on their curries. I ventured all over the place but was based in the Midlands. We went out to a pub one night & left late after a skin full & ended up at this Authentic Paki restaurant. Back then they were pretty much the only places open & allowed to trade. McDonald's, KFC etc. had restricted trading hours & were closed by 11.00pm (I think?) so if you wanted a feed after leaving the pub at closing, you had to go to one of these restaurants. Anyways... ...I went conservative & ordered something mild, & have NFI what sneaky, undetectable ingredients they put in this curry, but man'O'man did all four of us pay for it that night/morning when we got home. The place we were in was two storied with very steep steps to the upstairs loo. The four of us were up & down those steps a ridiculous amount of times, often with three pounding on the loo door yelling "hurry up", with the fourth in there almost screaming! LOL Trust me it wasn't funny at the time though! My backside was like a round of burnt toast when all was said & done! I came back with some pretty solid calves after that holiday! Lusty.
  43. 1 point
    So brewed and pitched today. Was a good brew day. A tad over 4 hours from filling the kettle to finishing clean up. Took 15 minutes to chill the wort from boiling to 30c with my immersion chiller and only 35 litres of water to get to 70c. Pitched the slurry of Voss into the wort as I filled the fermenter. Pressure started to build after 3 hours, @30c, and 5 hours later it is highly active and the fermenter is now sitting at 12.5psi. The use of pressure ferment and Voss Kviek have really been a positive change to my beer making processes. From my experience this ferment will be over in 48 hours and be in the keg by the weekend to condition.
  44. 1 point
    I was driving and doing the voice to text thing, obviously not very clearly
  45. 1 point
    Al, you’re a genius. Wish I’d thought of that.
  46. 1 point
    I reckon if my wife would stop drinking all my beer I’d be able to get it past a month old to see the difference in “aged” beer.
  47. 1 point
    I always bulk prime in the FV. Just gently stir the primer in and try not to disturb the trub in the FV. If you do, just let it settle for a little. I find it works well and the carbonation levels are consistent across all bottle sizes.
  48. 1 point
    .998 is actually correct for water at 20 degrees or so. I thought mine was 2 points low as it reads that too, until it was pointed out the other day that it's actually correct. Went looking online about it and found numerous sources confirming it. I can stop adding 2 points to the readings now.
  49. 1 point
    Hey Lab Cat I use this calculator for bulk priming. I like my beers highly carbonated so I shoot for 2.8 to 3.0. I skimmed this post but I guess you want it higher than 2.1, plug in your desired level and off you go. https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/
  50. 1 point
    Lockdown Pale. This was an interesting one. No recipe here, just the APA, Malt, Simcoe bittered and Lemondrop DH. Then I realise it's close the the XPA, which I don't mind, but a bit thin and over hopped for me. I didn't hold back on the hops myself, but expected they'd balance with the 1.5 malt. Seems they did, but I still expected a bit more hop. King Ruddy 2 thumbs from all my testers, ended up giving too much of this away, but then...it is lockdown. Everyone drinking this tastes some orange zest a bit of pine and a balanced bitterness.
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